RE: 2 Durangos / same problem
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/25/2007 6:51:50 PM
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dbagnew
Posts: 11
Joined: 9/18/2007
Status: offline
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I just went out and both D's fans turn and turn in either direction. (This is the fan that you feel immediately when you put your hand behind the plastic guard that says "CAUTION FAN". The level on the dip stick in the radiator reservoir for both D's says full. I took the radiator cap off my D and the antifreeze level was full. I started the D and the antifreeze level never went down in fact it started to overflow. All this time, about 3 to 5 minutes, the indicator inside never went past the first marker (white line) on the left to right (i guess this is the 1/4 indicator).
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/26/2007 11:40:59 AM
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Kensai
Posts: 1649
Joined: 12/30/2003
From: United States
Status: offline
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DBagnew,
You said the fan turn and turn? But how much did it turn? when you tried to turn the fan, did you try to use alot of force or just little force? that is another indicator if the clutch on the fan is good or bad, if you have to use alot of force to turn the fan, the clutch is good, if you use little force to easily turn the fan, the clutch is going out.
_____________________________
Black 2000 Durango 5.9 R/T
Fastman 52mm ThrottleBody
Fastman custom built Tranny
Castrol Full Syntec
OEM K&N Air filter
Monroe Reflexes
BFG Comp T/A''s
Champion IR Truck Plugs
180 Stat
Hypertech III (87 oct)
Custom Made Ram Air Intake
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/26/2007 11:51:45 AM
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dbagnew
Posts: 11
Joined: 9/18/2007
Status: offline
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No force at all was used to move the fan. It was very easy.
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/26/2007 12:36:18 PM
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Kensai
Posts: 1649
Joined: 12/30/2003
From: United States
Status: offline
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little or no force to easily turn the fan means your clutch is toast. Replace the fan clutch on your and I almost garuantee it won't overheat anymore. But the side effect to having a new clutch installed, you may hear excessive fan roar which by design is suppose to behave. it'll roar until the clutch gets nice and warm and then dis-engage to quiet down the fan.
_____________________________
Black 2000 Durango 5.9 R/T
Fastman 52mm ThrottleBody
Fastman custom built Tranny
Castrol Full Syntec
OEM K&N Air filter
Monroe Reflexes
BFG Comp T/A''s
Champion IR Truck Plugs
180 Stat
Hypertech III (87 oct)
Custom Made Ram Air Intake
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/26/2007 4:33:29 PM
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dbagnew
Posts: 11
Joined: 9/18/2007
Status: offline
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I was able to take time and with the right angle from Sun light I was able to tell that both electric fan assist in both D's doesn't turn. I left both cars run for about 10 minutes. I started and stopped the A/C every 2 1/2 minutes to see if this have an effect but no. To top this crisis off my wife called to tell me that the car was sputtering on the way home. It's good to be alive :) I tested the moving of the clutch fans by hand and they move in both directions, full circle, pretty easily.
Once again thanks for all you help.
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RE: 2 Durangos / same problem - 9/26/2007 5:54:49 PM
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MAGIC84
Posts: 181
Joined: 12/16/2006
Status: offline
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As for your P0440 problem, If I recall correctly, EVAP EMISSIONS LEAK (SMALL I BELIEVE) I can tell you that my light eventually went away but it took a while. I can share some reasonably obvious areas to check that might get a good start.
EDITED TO ADD: THESE PROCEDURES AND PARTS DECSRIPTION APPLY TO 2003 4.7L ENGINES. YEARS MIGHT BE SAME BUT THE KEY THING TO REMEMBER IS 4.7 LV8'S
1. EVAP CANISTER Drivers side, forward of the fuel tank, attached to frame, about the size of a loaf of bread. There are at least three vacuum lines I had dry rot on two of them. It was a dry rot tear on the canister side nipple, so inspect closely, a good bright work light will help. I had to replace the two bigger lines. Here is the trick though, The line is a flared vacuum line although rubber it is a 7/16 internal diameter for one side and 3/8th on the other. One of the few occasions I recommend dealer stock.
2. FUEL CAP: Again dealer stock, in my area it was only about $10 about same as market area prices.
3. PCV VALVE TUBING: Follow the tubing off the PCV VALVE there should be rubber hose, hard plastic tubing, and Right between the firewall and the intake manifold, one more piece of rubber elbow. Dealer cost in my area about $7-10 Allow time for delivery not a normal in stock item, but may vary depending on market. I am in INDY but got the part from warehouse in Milwaukee. N/A at Advance or Auto Zone.
I had to have light reset after each replacement, and it still came back on but code went from LEAK to code P0456 (VERY SMALL LEAK) so I was making progress. After it ran enough cycles the light stayed out and has been out for about two months now.
Other tidbits I have learned.
1. Don't check just the vacuum lines mentioned, check the whole area, including surrounding lines.
2. When refueling, Engine off, key out, cap off and do not energize until fueling complete. Even though the engine is not on, the circuit will eventually set off the M.I.L unless the fuel cap is on tight (minimum three clicks)
The causes are not listed to only the above, but should be a fairly reasonable starting point for troubleshooting. If none of these obvious hecks turn up anything then you might have a repair shop visit. They should be able to do a smoke test, which is basically a smoke dye that is run through a closed system and where the smoke comes out, that is the leak. Appprox $50 in my area but if you can't find anything then you might be forced into this. How much is peace of mind and finally finding the leak worth?
< Message edited by MAGIC84 -- 9/26/2007 6:15:16 PM >
_____________________________
2003 DURANGO SLT 4X4 4.7 3RD ROW.
LEATHER SONY XM STEREO
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