Ok I installed the power wire and all was fine but once the engine gets up to temperature the check engine light comes on. If I pull off the power wire, the light never comes on. Any suggestions? Anyone else have this after installing the power wire?

thats why i just relocated my iat sensor. no codes or nothing. are you sure you have the wires on the correct leads? and not reversed

The 4.7k resistor is on the Green/Blue wire. What do mean you relocated the sensor? You mean you removed it from the air plenum and if so where did you relocate it to? Did you then block the sensor hole in the plenum?

he moved it more tward the filter and pluged the old hole. did you cut and put the resistor in the factory wire or make your own harness like I did?

Mine did the same thing....one wire had popped out and thrown the code....removed it and it went back to normal

I made the harness like you did. I didn't see the point of tapping or cutting the factory wire. It took me all of twenty minutes to make a jumper harness using the chopped spade lug to go into the female factory connector and I had a mini Molex from work that fit the male pins on the sensor. It looks very factory. I will check the connections to make sure nothing came loose. I'll report back.

I havent had any codes, but I put mine in-line. I would also suggest checking all connections. So, I have nothing to add. lol

Graythang, you wouldn't happen to have a part number for the molex connector would you?

I can get it at work tomorrow. We use them for LED lead inserts. They come with a 6" set of 20ga wire on them. The actual plug that is used on the truck from the factory is an Amp/Tyco seal tight connector.

ok, ya I would check all conections. where can you buy some of those conectors? I need some.

I will look the P/N up at work for the mini Molex. The AMP/Tyco factory connector can’t be had so easily because they are purchased in bulk and you need to have the correct crimp tool for the pins. I can't seem to get the check engine light to turn off even if I pull the resistor out and re-plug in the factory sensorconnector. Do I need to re-set the ECM and if so what is the best way that most found to work. Disconnect the neg. bat terminal for how long or something like that.

if everything is hooked up correctly then wait a day or two and it will reset itself. one other thing is, did you check the resistor to make sure it is good before the install?

Yep, the resistor still checks good within the fabricated harness. I noticed that even without the resistor and everything plugged back to stock with the CE-light still on the engine acts as if the resistor is still there as there is more punch to the engine. Maybe the sensor is in an off state until the ECM resets. I wish we had an inside tech with Dodge on our forum. We could use a resident Dodge guru who knows the ins & outs of the CAN-B, sensors and tips & tricks. I'll reinstall the resistor once the ECM resets and start over.

i have always reset by pulling the neg cable and waiting 20 minutes. then turning it from off to run 3 times. i usually hear a tone sound after the 3rd time... hope it helps.

Thanks if it doesn't reset by Wednesday by itself than I will do that sequence. If all else fails there is always the dealer under the warranty. It runs sooo good with the sensor not working or with the resistor.

Ok, can anyone help me out....... My next mod will definately include the Power Wire, but with the first post and this one I'm kinda lost. Is there anyway I can get like a step-by-step procedure for this?? I saw the pictures but am still lost....... I really would like to get it going.......

THANK YOU!!!!!!!

my iat sensor came unpluged one time but the light turned off right after I pluged it back in. hasent came on sence

OK the CE light went out on its own this morning. Now I'm going to insert the power wire again. Yes I noticed a difference since the light is off meaning that the ECM found the sensor and it's running like stock. It really does make a difference with the power wire. I'm going to install 180 degree stat this weekend. I want the engine to run cool as possible because Mopar V8 have always ran best in 40 degree weather. It’s always been that way. I guess a CAI should be next with a 68.5mm TB. She's going to kill me. Ole Graythang is feeling the kitty whip with every receipt.

My power wire.

local://upfiles/40810/D6EEA9EEEE0E4BFC950D5A8C1B9823FF.jpg

local://upfiles/40810/C45C960AD5A443EBBF23D1B92F7ABE3D.jpg

that looks good

I'm sure I missed a thread on this somewhere, but would one of you mind explaining what a "power wire" is and what it does?

The power wire changes the value of the air temp sensor for the intake plenum and tricks the computer to think that the air temperature is cooler than it really is. Please not in my drawing I forgot to mention that the wire the resistor goes on is the (green/blue)

local://upfiles/40810/A8C61B32EF664CD88AD776843F4343F3.jpg

Isn't that bad if your truck starts overheating? Does this mean that if your truck starts heating up your computer won't recognize it in time and your engine can cease? or is that just too extreme...and what does tricking the truck into thinking its running cooler do to make you gain hp and tq?

Several sensors make up the information the computer references to change fuel mixture ratios etc. As far as temperature goes, the real info would be the water temperature. That is critical in that it must no get to a point of boiling out. The entire engine is kept in a jacket of water that is cool by the radiator and needs force are from the fan to do that. So the intake air should also be as cool as possible to keep the computer from having to adjust the fuel mixture for a hot engine. The intake chamber on many vehicles are now composite and that means they are inherently a cooler chamber for the fuel and air then with say aluminum intakes.

So been driving with the power wire for two days now and the truck run notably smoother with some extra kick that use to lost once the truck warmed up. I did without doubt lost a half a MPG. That driving it as I usually do. Still you beat the cost of that mod for the return in performance. Make you wonder what one could do with a righteous programmer or tuner chip kit. I'm installing a 180 degree stat tomorrow.

What octane are you running in it now?

General plus grade 87 to 91 Chevron/Sunoco/etc

If anyone is fabricating Power Wires I am interested in purchasing one.