Is taking it out back and shooting it an option?
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Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 7/2/2007 2:50:09 PM
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niftyguy239
Posts: 98
Joined: 5/16/2007
Status: offline
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Hello all,
I own 2 Dodge a 2006 Dakota and a 2000 Durango.
My wife drives the durango 3 times a week to and from work and that is it. Dakota is used for rest of traffic. My Durango is a 5.9L V8 4x2 (360) auto tranny with CAI , flowmaster exhaust, champion spark plugs with aftermarket ignition coil and wires and a Pionneer aftermarket stereo with 78,796 miles. The battery and alternator are less then 7 months old as I had this problem in December of 06 but replacing both the alternator and battery fixed it.
The other day my wife and I went to do some summer cleaning of our garage so I went to move the D and low and behold it doesn't start. No power anywhere, no lights, no door chime, no nothing. Ok I immediately though of the alternator and battery. I jumped it with my Dakota, it took about 10 minutes of charging it off my truck to get the D to start. It would start up but then shut off if the gas wasn't pressed. Let it run at 2k rpms for 4 mins and let the ilde drop, dropped to 600 rpms and purred like a kitten. Shut the truck off and wouldn't start, no power again. Jumped it again but this time as soon as I put the cables on it started. I let the truck run at ilde speed for 15 minutes and then shut it off. Tapped the ignition and started up fine x1. Turned if off again and there was minimal power and the starter only clicked. Now, during this process my check gages light came on and my voltameter in the dash went from passed 18 to being under 8 and not working. At first when I jumped the truck and ran it at 2k rpms it went to 18 volts. When I had it at ilde the meter showed 10 volts for 10 seconds and then dropped to nothing, this is when the check gages light came on. At this poin the truck is dead again, I went to jump it and only put the positive side one and the truck started up fine. This is with the negative off. So I thought it would be a battery connection problem. I wanted to be sure so I removed the alternaotr and battery and went to Discount, they tested everything and the alternator came back only charging at 10 volts. OK so I took the alternator to the store where i bought it from AZ with the warranty. They tested it and said it came back within normal limits. they went ahead and replaced it with a new alternator and tested the battery and came out fine at 12.9 volts. I bought new battery terminals and brought everything back to my home, installed the batter alternator and replaced the battery terminals. Started right up with no problem x 4. Took it for a test drive and the check gages light came on and my voltmeter died. My truck still running fine with no miss fires or any electrical problems. I brought it back home and shut it off. Started it up x 2 again this time right after start up my check gages light came on and also my truck would idle fine but when the gas was pressed and let go it would go below my 600 rpm idle limit and sputter and shut off. I thought maybe my idle was off. I drove it to Wal-Mart bought some groceries and drove back home. Started up and ran just fine in transit between my home and Walmart and Walmrt back home. Still the volameter was dead. I drove it to my wife's work (6 miles from my home) running the A/C and with the radio on, approx 1 miles form my wife's work the air bag light came on then the check gages light then my radio started flickering on and off. My A/c stopped working and my head lights dimmed to almost not being on. I made it back home but my battery is now dead AGAIN and there is absoultely no power to my truck. WTF is going on? I went back to AZ bought the Hanyes manual and went back home to test circuits. Didn't find anything wrong. I also learned that this might also be a PCM problem. It sounds like there is a major parasitic drain on my battery. I'm thinking the PCM is shorting out causing the drain on the battery. In light of this all there are no check engine codes that are flashed or even produced. In light of having to shell out 1200 bucks for the damn thing I wanted your alls opinion before I take it to the dealer. Can the PCM be installed by me to minimize cost? Again I ned you all to help me out with opinions, tricks of the trade or soultions for this. I'm renting a car for my wife until I get this fixed.
_____________________________
2006 Dodge Dakota SLT Quad Cab Silver
4.7 V8 4x2 Auto
2000 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L V8 4x2 Charcoal Auto
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 7/2/2007 9:41:12 PM
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IndyDurango
Posts: 755
Joined: 6/24/2006
Status: offline
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A few spaces in that huge paragraph would be nice. I didn't read it all but can sum it up for you. ANY low voltage/bad battery/old or new yet drained battery/etc WILL result in low RPM drivability issues. If the battery is weak (new, old, charged, uncharged, whatever) it WILL cause headaches and crazy 'why won't the truck run' issues.
I'm betting that is the issue. Of you want to sum up the long paragraph above, I'm sure more will chime in with additional ideas.
IndyDurango
_____________________________
- Truck of the Month: 07/07 Dakota-Durango.com;
12/06 DodgeForum.com; 1/06 DurangoClub.com
- Durangoer of the Year: 2006 DurangoClub.com
- Three Time TotM Nominee: DTW.com
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 7/3/2007 12:52:34 AM
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niftyguy239
Posts: 98
Joined: 5/16/2007
Status: offline
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Well let me sum it up for ya Indy.......
The damn thing won't work.
I'll try a new battery on Thursday, Im a medic and I'm lucky enough to pull tomorrow and the holiday on duty (48 hrs straight) "fun". So it will have to wait until Thursday.
Anyway, an update from my last post, I went to work on the Durango today the thing had juice, had 10 volts and the door chime lights and fuel pump all clicked on. I tried starting the truck, and it started but immediately shut down. Tried this x 3 and all shut down. I'm gonna definately try the new battery thing. I just had the CPS replaced last month so I'm thinking that it might be shorting out?
Virused, I'm mechincally inclined to a certain degree, please can you elborate (where,when,what,how) on the regulator? It might sound like that's the problem.
_____________________________
2006 Dodge Dakota SLT Quad Cab Silver
4.7 V8 4x2 Auto
2000 Dodge Durango SLT 5.9L V8 4x2 Charcoal Auto
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 7/3/2007 8:34:50 AM
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kjun
Posts: 168
Joined: 10/27/2005
Status: offline
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I think I would give the battery thing a shot as well. Maybe even swap the one from you Dak. Also I would consider having the alt double checked. I've gotten bad ones before, especially rebuilds. Just a thought.
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 7/6/2007 11:29:14 AM
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kjun
Posts: 168
Joined: 10/27/2005
Status: offline
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The markup sucks, but it sure as hell beat the $1200 you thought you might have to spend. Glad you got her running.
Good to know about that fuse.
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 8/27/2007 7:01:01 AM
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DurangoRT/RN
Posts: 20
Joined: 8/24/2007
Status: offline
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I'm curious about the question niftyguy239 asked above...
"Is it normal for the D's to have problems after putting new mods on? For example: I just had an MSD igntion system 2 weeks ago, replaced fuel pump and filter last month, cams and lifters last month, tune up with Champion spark plugs and custom CAI in April."
I ask this because my truck is now dying anytime the RPMs go down. It first happened yesterday after we were disconnecting/reconnecting the speakers and my young son was inside screwing with the overhead lights and other stuff, so the battery was probably draining for a bit and there may have been some surges?? It started with just the stereo not even working until the truck was turned completely on. My drive is on a slope and it was parked with the front end down. When I started the truck it said 8 miles to empty, but as soon as I pulled out of the drive it IMMEDIATLY said a big 0... SO, I thought well maybe the problem is that I'm running out of gas... So I drove the 1/2 mile with a feeling of low power and it dying a few times when I stopped. But I made it to the station pulled in and it died again. I filled it up and drove home with some still odd power feelings, but it did not die. It was even able to idle in my drive for about 10 minutes before turning it off. So, I thought it was a fuel issue solved...
Well, this morning it again died multiple times when stopping or coasting with the RPMs around 1... I had to master the stopping with my foot on the gas to take my (other) son to school this morning, which is dangerous....!!! And even still I died over 15 times in four miles... So I want to fix this ASAP. I'm going to try the fuses, so if they are fine, the battery will be checked next. It does not show low on the gauges though and no check lights on at all.
Thanks guys, I really love this forum and hope the fuse is the only problem!! It really seems to pour when it rains for my RT...
Black 2001 Durango RT 5.9 I bought it new with 8 miles on it. Needs some hail repair, but hell it's long been paid for! I love my truck!
< Message edited by DurangoRT/RN -- 8/27/2007 7:34:28 AM >
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 8/29/2007 5:01:38 PM
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dishdude2k
Posts: 499
Joined: 1/15/2007
Status: offline
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your particular issue sounds like it could be fuel filter.. if you ran it down that low on fuel.. threre could be some junk in it... i would try to change that.. also have your fuel pressure checked..
quote:
ORIGINAL: DurangoRT/RN
I'm curious about the question niftyguy239 asked above...
"Is it normal for the D's to have problems after putting new mods on? For example: I just had an MSD igntion system 2 weeks ago, replaced fuel pump and filter last month, cams and lifters last month, tune up with Champion spark plugs and custom CAI in April."
I ask this because my truck is now dying anytime the RPMs go down. It first happened yesterday after we were disconnecting/reconnecting the speakers and my young son was inside screwing with the overhead lights and other stuff, so the battery was probably draining for a bit and there may have been some surges?? It started with just the stereo not even working until the truck was turned completely on. My drive is on a slope and it was parked with the front end down. When I started the truck it said 8 miles to empty, but as soon as I pulled out of the drive it IMMEDIATLY said a big 0... SO, I thought well maybe the problem is that I'm running out of gas... So I drove the 1/2 mile with a feeling of low power and it dying a few times when I stopped. But I made it to the station pulled in and it died again. I filled it up and drove home with some still odd power feelings, but it did not die. It was even able to idle in my drive for about 10 minutes before turning it off. So, I thought it was a fuel issue solved...
Well, this morning it again died multiple times when stopping or coasting with the RPMs around 1... I had to master the stopping with my foot on the gas to take my (other) son to school this morning, which is dangerous....!!! And even still I died over 15 times in four miles... So I want to fix this ASAP. I'm going to try the fuses, so if they are fine, the battery will be checked next. It does not show low on the gauges though and no check lights on at all.
Thanks guys, I really love this forum and hope the fuse is the only problem!! It really seems to pour when it rains for my RT...
Black 2001 Durango RT 5.9 I bought it new with 8 miles on it. Needs some hail repair, but hell it's long been paid for! I love my truck!
_____________________________
01 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 auto w/ 3 inch body lift and 3 inch suspension lift
99 Caravan 3.0
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RE: Is taking it out back and shooting it an option? - 4/16/2008 2:24:30 PM
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sambucajay
Posts: 1
Joined: 4/16/2008
Status: offline
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Hi! I'm not sure if anyone's still reading this thread except for me, but I need a bit of help. I'm having a similar issue with my 2001 Durango R/T:
After driving just a few blocks, the check gages light comes on and battery gauge drops, yet it still runs around town and starts ok (so far).
Pulled the codes and got this:
P0622 - Generator Field Not Switching Properly - An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit.
P1682 - Charging System Voltage Too Low - Charging system output voltage low.
I was hoping that I might replace this $10 140-amp fuse and see if it fixes the problem, rather than paying $100 at our local dealership to diagnose it.
However, I can't seem to FIND the darn fuse. I've looked through the fuse box under the hood, but can't seem to locate it. I've followed the wire from the alternator into the fuse box, along with the positive wire from the battery into the fuse box. Where they meet, it looks like they're just kinda screwed together, but it doesn't look like there's a fuse there. Perhaps I don't really know what I'm looking for.  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Maybe a part number printed on it might help me?
Also, I replaced the battery about a month ago because I had tried to start it and it was completely dead, even though I swore I didn't leave any lights on. Tried to jump the old battery, but it just wouldn't hold a charge. It was probably the original battery, since I got the durango at 3 years old and I hadn't replaced the battery, so I didn't mind getting a new one.
Thanks, again!
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