niftyguy239
07-02-2007, 05:50 PM
Hello all,
I own 2 Dodge a 2006 Dakota and a 2000 Durango.
My wife drives the durango 3 times a week to and from work and that is it. Dakota is used for rest of traffic. My Durango is a 5.9L V8 4x2 (360) auto tranny with CAI , flowmaster exhaust, champion spark plugs with aftermarket ignition coil and wires and a Pionneer aftermarket stereo with 78,796 miles. The battery and alternator are less then 7 months old as I had this problem in December of 06 but replacing both the alternator and battery fixed it.
The other day my wife and I went to do some summer cleaning of our garage so I went to move the D and low and behold it doesn't start. No power anywhere, no lights, no door chime, no nothing. Ok I immediately though of the alternator and battery. I jumped it with my Dakota, it took about 10 minutes of charging it off my truck to get the D to start. It would start up but then shut off if the gas wasn't pressed. Let it run at 2k rpms for 4 mins and let the ilde drop, dropped to 600 rpms and purred like a kitten. Shut the truck off and wouldn't start, no power again. Jumped it again but this time as soon as I put the cables on it started. I let the truck run at ilde speed for 15 minutes and then shut it off. Tapped the ignition and started up fine x1. Turned if off again and there was minimal power and the starter only clicked. Now, during this process my check gages light came on and my voltameter in the dash went from passed 18 to being under 8 and not working. At first when I jumped the truck and ran it at 2k rpms it went to 18 volts. When I had it at ilde the meter showed 10 volts for 10 seconds and then dropped to nothing, this is when the check gages light came on. At this poin the truck is dead again, I went to jump it and only put the positive side one and the truck started up fine. This is with the negative off. So I thought it would be a battery connection problem. I wanted to be sure so I removed the alternaotr and battery and went to Discount, they tested everything and the alternator came back only charging at 10 volts. OK so I took the alternator to the store where i bought it from AZ with the warranty. They tested it and said it came back within normal limits. they went ahead and replaced it with a new alternator and tested the battery and came out fine at 12.9 volts. I bought new battery terminals and brought everything back to my home, installed the batter alternator and replaced the battery terminals. Started right up with no problem x 4. Took it for a test drive and the check gages light came on and my voltmeter died. My truck still running fine with no miss fires or any electrical problems. I brought it back home and shut it off. Started it up x 2 again this time right after start up my check gages light came on and also my truck would idle fine but when the gas was pressed and let go it would go below my 600 rpm idle limit and sputter and shut off. I thought maybe my idle was off. I drove it to Wal-Mart bought some groceries and drove back home. Started up and ran just fine in transit between my home and Walmart and Walmrt back home. Still the volameter was dead. I drove it to my wife's work (6 miles from my home) running the A/C and with the radio on, approx 1 miles form my wife's work the air bag light came on then the check gages light then my radio started flickering on and off. My A/c stopped working and my head lights dimmed to almost not being on. I made it back home but my battery is now dead AGAIN and there is absoultely no power to my truck. WTF is going on? I went back to AZ bought the Hanyes manual and went back home to test circuits. Didn't find anything wrong. I also learned that this might also be a PCM problem. It sounds like there is a major parasitic drain on my battery. I'm thinking the PCM is shorting out causing the drain on the battery. In light of this all there are no check engine codes that are flashed or even produced. In light of having to shell out 1200 bucks for the damn thing I wanted your alls opinion before I take it to the dealer. Can the PCM be installed by me to minimize cost? Again I ned you all to help me out with opinions, tricks of the trade or soultions for this. I'm renting a car for my wife until I get this fixed.
I own 2 Dodge a 2006 Dakota and a 2000 Durango.
My wife drives the durango 3 times a week to and from work and that is it. Dakota is used for rest of traffic. My Durango is a 5.9L V8 4x2 (360) auto tranny with CAI , flowmaster exhaust, champion spark plugs with aftermarket ignition coil and wires and a Pionneer aftermarket stereo with 78,796 miles. The battery and alternator are less then 7 months old as I had this problem in December of 06 but replacing both the alternator and battery fixed it.
The other day my wife and I went to do some summer cleaning of our garage so I went to move the D and low and behold it doesn't start. No power anywhere, no lights, no door chime, no nothing. Ok I immediately though of the alternator and battery. I jumped it with my Dakota, it took about 10 minutes of charging it off my truck to get the D to start. It would start up but then shut off if the gas wasn't pressed. Let it run at 2k rpms for 4 mins and let the ilde drop, dropped to 600 rpms and purred like a kitten. Shut the truck off and wouldn't start, no power again. Jumped it again but this time as soon as I put the cables on it started. I let the truck run at ilde speed for 15 minutes and then shut it off. Tapped the ignition and started up fine x1. Turned if off again and there was minimal power and the starter only clicked. Now, during this process my check gages light came on and my voltameter in the dash went from passed 18 to being under 8 and not working. At first when I jumped the truck and ran it at 2k rpms it went to 18 volts. When I had it at ilde the meter showed 10 volts for 10 seconds and then dropped to nothing, this is when the check gages light came on. At this poin the truck is dead again, I went to jump it and only put the positive side one and the truck started up fine. This is with the negative off. So I thought it would be a battery connection problem. I wanted to be sure so I removed the alternaotr and battery and went to Discount, they tested everything and the alternator came back only charging at 10 volts. OK so I took the alternator to the store where i bought it from AZ with the warranty. They tested it and said it came back within normal limits. they went ahead and replaced it with a new alternator and tested the battery and came out fine at 12.9 volts. I bought new battery terminals and brought everything back to my home, installed the batter alternator and replaced the battery terminals. Started right up with no problem x 4. Took it for a test drive and the check gages light came on and my voltmeter died. My truck still running fine with no miss fires or any electrical problems. I brought it back home and shut it off. Started it up x 2 again this time right after start up my check gages light came on and also my truck would idle fine but when the gas was pressed and let go it would go below my 600 rpm idle limit and sputter and shut off. I thought maybe my idle was off. I drove it to Wal-Mart bought some groceries and drove back home. Started up and ran just fine in transit between my home and Walmart and Walmrt back home. Still the volameter was dead. I drove it to my wife's work (6 miles from my home) running the A/C and with the radio on, approx 1 miles form my wife's work the air bag light came on then the check gages light then my radio started flickering on and off. My A/c stopped working and my head lights dimmed to almost not being on. I made it back home but my battery is now dead AGAIN and there is absoultely no power to my truck. WTF is going on? I went back to AZ bought the Hanyes manual and went back home to test circuits. Didn't find anything wrong. I also learned that this might also be a PCM problem. It sounds like there is a major parasitic drain on my battery. I'm thinking the PCM is shorting out causing the drain on the battery. In light of this all there are no check engine codes that are flashed or even produced. In light of having to shell out 1200 bucks for the damn thing I wanted your alls opinion before I take it to the dealer. Can the PCM be installed by me to minimize cost? Again I ned you all to help me out with opinions, tricks of the trade or soultions for this. I'm renting a car for my wife until I get this fixed.