hey everyone... used to have a 98 neon (hence the user name) sold it, bought a 1985 mustang SVO, needed a truck. So i bought a 2004 4WD Dakota SLT club(or extended) cab with 38530 miles on it. i want to lift it but 1500 for a suspension lift is out of my price range right now. so ive read up on it and think im going to crank the torsion bars 8 turns i think it was for the 2" lift in the front. now my question is i cant find the blocks for the back to lift the back another 2". right now i have 245/70/16 on some dodge 16" rims. plan on getting 275/70/16s once i need new tires. so if someone can point me in the right direction for the blocks i need to put on my leaf springs i would greatly appreciate it. And i can only hope that the dakota forum is as friendly and knowledgeable as the neon one
Autozone has them. 1",2", and 3" kits that come with the U-bolts, hardware, and of course the blocks. The fit our trucks like a glove. I have a 2" kit on my 2006 dakota, after I lifted the front 2" I also needed blocks for the rear. These are good quality and have worked great for the 3mo. Ive had em in.
Monkeywrench is correct here. Any major auto parts store will have a standard block lift kit for rear leaf springs. This will work just fine. For the front, I would recommend buying the lift "keys" off of eBay, that way you will not need to crank the torsion bars to the point where they are nearly out of spec. There are several members on this board that have used these keys and hopefully they will chime in.
__________________ Chris MODerator
99 Dodge Dakota, 56 Ford F100, 06 Honda RC51
Well now that I have gone through the install, in my opinion, these are kinda worthless. As I see it, wether the torsion bar anchor is offset 2 inches or you just crank the adjuster down more, it is putting 2 more inches worth of pressure on the torsion bar resulting in the lower control arm raising the front end. So either way your adding the same amount of pressure to the bar, am I crazy when thinking and looking this setup? Also, longer shocks are not needed as the bump stop will stop the upper control arm travel before the shock extends any farther then stock. Your not adding any travel to the front end, just adjusting where in the travel the front end sits.
In my opinion, cranking the bars, getting beefier shocks, and moog greasable ball joints is the best thing to do besides an outright lift, which after talking to rancho does add a little travel (not enough travel to justify the cost to me though).
My 2 cents.
Edit : found this in another post
so is it worth it getting the keys or not?
i bought that universal 2" lift from autozone during lunch, but reading another post; what are the 2" shackles there talking about?
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Zigg
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 ST
Straight Piped
Body Lift
35 x 12.5 x 17 on stock rims
Debaged
Night Shaded Tails and 3rd Brake Light
ok bought the autozone ones at lunch right...started at 530 pm with a friend of mine who has put them on before. finished at 930pm... not the torsion bars, just the blocks lol. driveshaft ended up falling out...omg what a major PITA to get back in. i almost got ran over by my own truck lol. anyway, once we got it back in it was a breeze. gonna do the torsion bars tommorrow as i totally do not feel like messing with that pita. long story short, the moral of the story is "if you dont have access to a lift to do the blocks, try to get one" as it will make it ten times easier. not to mention safer lol. anyway ill post up before and after pics after i get the torsion bars done tommorrow. any tips on doing them?
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Zigg
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 ST
Straight Piped
Body Lift
35 x 12.5 x 17 on stock rims
Debaged
Night Shaded Tails and 3rd Brake Light
New here Updated with pics After Lift
