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RE: SLUGE

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RE: SLUGE - 5/4/2007 1:45:53 PM   
jmartin8310

 

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IndyDurango, I'm sure you are right about sludge, or at least I hope you are.  But have a look at this consumer web site:  http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_dur_oil.html, in which lots of folks seem to think their engine failure is sludge related.

Whatever it is, I am having problems getting oil to return to the crankcase.

(in reply to IndyDurango)
Post #: 16
RE: SLUGE - 5/4/2007 3:30:55 PM   
IndyDurango



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jmartin8310

IndyDurango, I'm sure you are right about sludge, or at least I hope you are.  But have a look at this consumer web site:  http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_dur_oil.html, in which lots of folks seem to think their engine failure is sludge related.

Whatever it is, I am having problems getting oil to return to the crankcase.


jmartin,

That same link makes the rounds every couple of months. In all the forums I visit, never have I read of such occurances from "real" users. I say real because while I can't find the link right now, I can tell you there was a study in which someone went looking for (example) Tom Smith in Lancaster Oklahoma (saying he was 'quoted' in the article) and no Tom Smith in Lancaster existed that owned a Durango or could have made the claim. Like most media outlets, horror stories run in the front page. Recalls of incorrectly reported information on such horors get buried in the back section somewhere days later.

Also, they start the article quoting an auto expert named "Automan"?! Come on, again everyday forum readers, anyone ever heard of an expert named/callig himself "Automan"?

I think all cars can have an issue here or there. I also think some people confuse 100,000 mile spark plugs with 100,000 oil change intervals. YES, such an interval will create issues I'm sure. So what do they do? Accept responsibility? Nope. Blame someone else. Typical American response (yes I'm a US Vetern and an American.) If these were real people, they have axes to grind and think they are at no fault. My guess is their entire lives are spent in such blame-someone-else-for-all-my-woes encounters.

So yes... I call foul on that article and remind everyone to not believe everything they read on the Internet.

jmartin, on your specific issue, explain it to me clearer and let's see if we can figure it out. Also, take off a valve cover and take a look at it underneath. If you have a 4.7L, take the one off WITHOUT the PCV valve. Why? That one may have snot from the crankcase vent issue there is already a TSB published for (do a search). If you truely have sludge, it will be all around the valves, etc on both sides, so let's see a picture of this one.

If there is sludge there, then yes that could be leading towards your blockage if that is what you have. If you tell me your oil pressure gauge is jumpy, I'll tell you that the gauges are not so good and not really reliable, but that is for another post. If you find sludge,its on to the next steps but based on historical information, I doubt you will find it. What is the service history on your D? Oil change brands, intervals, etc? If you stick with and can provide receipts of the same oil and you DO have an oil related failure, most brands stand behind the product and will PAY YOU for the repair. I have nearly every receipt ever needed on my D for the past 8 years, from wax to oil to air freshener (for tax purposes.)

Best of luck, I'll look for your response(s).

IndyDurango

< Message edited by IndyDurango -- 5/4/2007 3:39:02 PM >


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(in reply to jmartin8310)
Post #: 17
RE: SLUGE - 5/25/2007 8:47:21 PM   
Uprock

 

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OK, I just cleaned with ATF. Let it idle for a while. Pressure was zero for a moment then went up. I drained the ATF added oil and started the DOdge wit hzero pressure again. THis time it stayed at 0, I started several times still at 0......with some ticking...very frustrating. Could it be the pumped? Where is the sending unit so I can test myself? Also, how hard is it to change the pump? PLease Help I need my Car!


(in reply to 98DD)
Post #: 18
RE: SLUGE - 1/31/2008 9:25:06 PM   
tschaap

 

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in reguards to this:

"4.7L sludge issues are usually not sludge at all. Snot is more like it and it is at the valve cover/PCV valve only. Snot is fixed via the TSB for the 4.7s. Afterwards, no problems. "

Which TSB is it I cannot seem to find it, also don't TSB's usually have the recommended solutions to the issues attached or am I dreaming?

Thanks!

(in reply to IndyDurango)
Post #: 19
RE: SLUGE - 1/31/2008 9:50:14 PM   
IndyDurango



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You're new so I'll give you a break on not doing a very good search LOL

Here ya go: http://www.DodgeForum.com/m_164273/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm
The TSB, et al is listed therein.

HTH,

IndyDurango

_____________________________


- Truck of the Month: 07/07 Dakota-Durango.com;
12/06 DodgeForum.com; 1/06 DurangoClub.com
- Durangoer of the Year: 2006 DurangoClub.com
- Three Time TotM Nominee: DTW.com

(in reply to tschaap)
Post #: 20
RE: SLUGE - 1/31/2008 9:52:23 PM   
IndyDurango



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oops. double post.

< Message edited by IndyDurango -- 1/31/2008 9:57:48 PM >

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RE: SLUGE - 4/27/2008 6:06:08 PM   
Overcast72

 

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*Found a page on this: http://www.schleeter.com/oil-sludge.htm *

Emailed the guy - asking what I could do to help avoid this - got a reply fast! I'm not sure on the commercial engine cleaners vs. Trans fluid - seems to be wisdom in the trans fluid. But just a FYI - he's got a cheap 'test' kit available too. While I don't think it will be a problem, it doesn't hurt to stay watchful.

Personally, I was thinking about a performance oil pump myself. They are almost required in performance cars that are going to be ran hard, and I can't see where it would be bad for everyday driving. It's a cheap insurance policy, IMO.

Question on this though - he recommends 5W-30 - is that right?  Edit: nm - found that answer here myself -- http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_550523/tm.htm

**************


Oil sludge is preventable, and can even be detected and reversed in the
early stages. Here's how:

First thing would be to change over to a quality motor oil - Valvoline Full
Synthetic 5w30. See more at
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=19
Available at WalMart,Amazon.com and local parts stores in a 6qt case.

Second, would be a "HIGH EFFICIENCY" Mobil 1 brand oil filter, available at
http://www.autobarn.net/mob1higefoil.html

Third, you should test the oil for oxidation and sludge using a small oil
sample from the dipstick, instead of lab samples which require an ounce or
more of oil and shipping to a labratory, you can get similar results for
much less money. There is a product I created due to overwhelming demand
from readers. I spent two years developing and testing this product, and
it works! http://schleeter.com/test/index.htm

I would then recommend taking that test to the next level by using a
magnifying glass to get a close up look at the oil sample. See
http://schleeter.com/images/oil%20test%20close%20up%2099%20toyota.jpg for
an example of a blotter test close up.

If testing shows abnormal results (carbon chips or sludge) start using BG
brand "QuickClean" and "MOA" at every oil service and continue until test
results improve. Their "Engine Purge" should only be used by a shop -
really strong stuff. Check out BG brand products on their web site
http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
they are available at your local parts store.

Most quick-lube shops or mechanics won't mind if you bring your own oil,
oil filter and additives if it is a brand they don't offer.

Change the PCV valve and hoses whether they need it or not,
every 20,000 miles. Also a clean OE quality (not K&N) air filter will also
help the oil stay clean and the engine running properly.

Good luck and happy trails, write back if you have any more questions.
Norris Schleeter

< Message edited by Overcast72 -- 4/28/2008 1:31:47 PM >

(in reply to IndyDurango)
Post #: 22
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