I have a 2000 dodge durango. 4wd with the 5.9 engine. My engine runs fine but if I let it idle about 10 minutes the check engine light comes on. It goes out after I drive it about 50 miles. It seems like putting premium gas in it made it go out but im not sure if im just thinking that. thanks for any help.

Let the engine run to get the code back and then turn off the truck. Cycle the key on and off 3 times, on the third time leave it in the on position and write the code/s down off of the odo. You can lookup the code in the engine code index at the top of the forum and let us know what the code is then we can help you from there.

You first need to get the code before anything can be done on a engine code light falt.

[8D]So I need a scan tool to get the code or should this display on the D's odometer? Wife was waiting in car pool at daughters school on the way up the hill to our house, "Check Engine" came on. I think she pissed at me because last weekend I was to detail her and I had to remove a 100 year oak from the front yard. Any suggestions would be appreciated. All gauges on the dash read normal. Fluids are topped off properly, no real crazy or abnormal engine noise.

if you have a 00' or newer just cycle the key on and off 3 times then on the 3rd time leave it in the on position and look at the odo it should tell you what you want to know.

Thanks M G, Nope no luck '99, guess I'll go to the Zone to night and get them to run the code machine.[:'(]

Auto Zone can hook you up. Just get the code and you can read it here or give it to us and we can help you out.

http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_614377/tm.htm

hydrashocker thanks! from one of your other posts, I had eight starts or 48 miles and the chcek engine light went away. Obviuosly was related to another problem with Fail Safe t-stat and not getting a good operating temperature.

:DThanks everyone for you help!!:)

ORIGINAL: Mean Green

if you have a 00' or newer just cycle the key on and off 3 times then on the 3rd time leave it in the on position and look at the odo it should tell you what you want to know.


Help!! :)

Got a 2003 Durango - I've had Dodge in the past as well - I've tried this a bunch of times and can't get a code to flash at all - it just sits on the milage. I've tried full turns from off to run three times - even 4th once or twice for good measure and the also just move one position 3 times. I let it run for a minute, tried it again as well.

Check engine light came on this morning and has been on steady since. So - should be getting something out of it [&:]

Update/FYI - No luck - until.. I held the trip odometer in and turned it on - went through it's dashboard light test. After that - 3 full cycles and it gave me codes :)

My '01 Durango has had the check engine light problem for the past few weeks. I replaced the gas cap (did that 1 year ago also and fixed problem), reset, and lasted two days...today light is back on so guess will have to investigate further. However, does anyone have an opinion about whether this is an urgent need or not? I have drive to Kentucky this week....should it be a problem?

While I may be completely wrong... :) (disclaimer)

If it's just a P0456 (minor leak in fuel vapor recovery) you could likely drive it forever and the only possible thing you might notice is minimal, if any impact on fuel economy, and likely from the computer trying to compensate by running other systems more - if it even does.

I suspect it would be zero problems - I've had the code going on for a couple days and haven't noticed a thing.

Although, if that's a long trip for you, it might do well, just for peace of mind, to go get another gas cap and see if it goes away. And maybe take a peek at the vacumn lines you can see to be sure they are tight and not torn anywhere.

You could try calling a dealer and asking them too - just to see what they say, of course - if they try to make it dire sounding, you may want a second opinion.

I'm thinking - since I have a P0456 showing, I may well just go get a new gas cap, new vacumn lines and charcoal canister and replace the whole lot. If it's like most other vehicles, I doubt it would even cost 50 bucks total.

Before I'd spend money something I didn't know was bad. This is what I'd do.

1. replace the gas cap, they are cheap and they will eventually go bad just from use. for good measure put a thin film of vasaline on the seal to keep it from drying out and cracking, check the sealing surface on the fuel filler neck for dents or dings from ramming a fuel filler nozzel in there at the gas station.

2. check the hoses at the charcoal canister, if in doubt replace them, make sure you check all the way back to the rollover valve at the top of the fuel tank. One of the hoses is a dealer item in my part of the world because it isdifferent sizes at each end and parts stores don't stock it, so I made my own from 2 different size hoses and a hose barb between them. for good measure I put small stainless hose clamps on everything that didn't have a clamp on it. Doesn't make sense to me that because of the location of the canister on the vehicle and the fact that it only takes a pin hole leak to cause a P0456 code that they didn't think that they needed clamps.

I did these things and I can leave my D sit for a week then go take the cap off and hear the woosh from the pressure being released. no leaks.

Rarely does a componet part of the evap system go bad, it is usually a bad seal or a bad hose that causes a leak.

As for leaving it alone and driving it that way, I would not. They put evap systems on vehicles for a reason. normaly the only vapor your going to lose is when you take off the cap and fill your tank, if you leave that way all your going to do is pump fuel vapor to the atmosphere reducing your mpg's (gasoline loves to evaporate) and causing more pollution. These vehicles don't get goodmpg's to begin with and at the price we are paying today I want to burn it not breatheit. If your check engin light is on all the time from an evap leak how ya going to know when something else goes bad?

The below posting is a reprint of a post from earlierthis winter, the post is old but the info is the same, good luck!!!!

FYI: Update to this post. AUTOZONE, does not clear codes anymore. They will read, and print but not clear. depending on what the code prints out, you might have to do a electrical reset, which involves of course removing the negative cable of the battery for approx 30 seconds, that of course involves resetting your radio but a minor inconvenience and sure beats dealer cost. I am not sure about Advance but seems to be a common trend, towards forcing you to take to a dealer. The self service auto parts repair stores are getting less and less service oriented but that is another thread


Good Morning, I just went through this last summer, now be patient part of this is experimentation. In no particular order, first part is some inspection of parts, again this is what eventually cleared mine, but it took a few tries. Do not panic, the code is basically a vacuum leak message, now where it is, might take some time. With that said, here is where to start inspecting. These codes could affect fuel mileage in the short term, but I made mine from Clearwater, FL to Indy approx 1050 miles no skipping, just a slightdrop in fuel economy.

1. Charcoal canister, inside frame rail, forward of fuel tank, driver side, approx between drivers seat and Left Rear passengers seat. check all vacuum lines carefully, mine was pretty obvious, it was dry rotted at the fitting, and a nice split. Now if it is that, here is the problem, the hose on that is a flared fitting, so the opening on one side is larger than the other, one 7/16th the other 3/8th. In my case I got two separate pieces of hose and got a coupler and hose clamped them together along with clamping them to the charcoal canister. Only one line was cracked, but while you are there might as well replace them both prevent yourself a light later. The length is small, so I was able to get some scrap pieces from AutoZone to make it work, and all I had to pay for was the couplers and hose clamps.

2. Vacuum line, it is the line that runs from the PCV valve behind and to the intake manifold, it is a combination of plastic tubing and hoses, so inspect carefully. I am not sure what to call it, but it is pretty cheap even for a dealer, but I believe it was somewhere around $10-15. If it hasent been done in a year, might as well replace the PCV valve while you are at it. FYI, it may not be a in stock item, so be prepared to hold a few days unless you live near a warehouse or a high volume dealership, multiple dealers in the area, or a combination of the above. Mine came from Milwaukee and took about two business days. Also make a note of the routing, on the manifold side, it is a blind corner for the connection, and the reason it is blind is the firewall and the aft part of the engine, it is alsoa 90 degree elbow, be patient and get small hands.

3. Fuel cap, I replaced mine, I hate to recommend dealerships, but in this case I will, mine was about $10 and a fairly common in stock item.

If you still get the M.I.L. after that, you might need a smoke test, basically they put a smoke die, and run it through the system wherever it leaks is the source. A long way to go, but if it is a small pin hole leak, and not obvious that might be your only hope. I believetests areapprox $40-50 for the Indianapolis area, plus whatever the leak finds and labor.

I hope this is a good start, obviously check all parts of the system, but these seem to be pretty common areas and dryrot of the hose should not be overlooked. If in doubt I would replace it, especially with it being an 02, if they have not been replaced before. A.Z. helped a lot with reading and clearing the codes, just time consuming and could be frustrating but welcometo the world of computer vehicles.

Good luck!!! get a good trouble light and run over the hoses carefully.

Steve.



_____________________________

2003 DURANGO SLT 4X4 4.7 3RD ROW.
LEATHER SONY XM STEREO

I have a 2000 durango (4.7L V8). It displays an engine code of P 0700. Does anyone know problems for P 0700?

Also is there a key sequence to reset check engine light? disconnecting the battery cable for several minutes didn't work.

thanks.