RE: Cold Air Intake my A**
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 2:47:16 AM
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Dak2
Posts: 10
Joined: 2/27/2007
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I might try out that setup you put on your truck Virused. Sounds like you've been pretty happy with it so far.
That heat shield probably helps to prevent the filter from drawing in too much warm air from the engine, but I guess it's unavoidable that it would heat it up a little unless you go with a setup like rtkota has.
Unfortunately that would be dangerous for offroading so it's not really an option for me.
As far as the air warming up inside the intake tube, even if that 4" tube does heat up, wouldn't the air be passing through the tube fast enough that it wouldn't have time to change temperature? I mean that tube can't be more than two feet long, so I'm assuming the air being fed into the intake would only spend a matter of a second or two inside the CAI.
Don't really know, but that seems to make sense to me.
rtkota - Those are some pretty sweet looking headlights you have on your truck.
Just wondering where you got them, and if replacing them has had any effect on the brightness of your headlights?
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 10:41:43 AM
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jk240sx
Posts: 175
Joined: 12/6/2006
From: Tampa Bay FL & Roosevelt UT
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Y'all still don't have true CAI unless the filter is located outside the engine compartment. I had one on my 240. It has a snorkel that connects via silicone elbow to the intake tube which places the filter under the front 1/4 panel outside the engine compartment. I live in Florida so in the summer I would remove the CAI tube and have the filter installed under the hood. I also had a heat shield that seperated the filter from the engine bay. From my experience, in the winter the CAI had a gain. In the summer I actually lost power from heat soak, with or without the shield. On a side note, before I got the CAI extension tube I ghetto fabbed a 45 degree rain gutter elbow that would direct cold air to the K&N filter using existing whole in the engine bay. It worked!
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''00 4WD Sport Ext Cab - 15.4 MPG
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 11:24:56 AM
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rtkota5point9
Posts: 892
Joined: 11/13/2006
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My true cld air intake didnt cost anything besides a little extra piping. My tube runs over the battery and into the fender on the drivers side, then I cut a 4" hole in the plate that seperates the bottom of the fender from behind the bumper and put my filter right there behind the foglight. I'll take some pics sometime. Right now I'm using a plexible rubber tubing for the piping, but I'll eventually have it in metal as soon as I can find somone local that can bend 4" tubing.
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 12:13:14 PM
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deranged
Posts: 1602
Joined: 11/23/2005
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While changing the oil in my son's 96 Dakota this morning, I noticed that his fresh air tube runs directly to the radiator support on the passenger side. It is the factory setup and has a baffle type enclosure to keep water and debris out of the intake but it is in the direct path of the air blast through the grill. Interesting that they changed the design on the second generation to air intake from the fenderwell area. Don't know if it would be because of less frontal area of the grill or did they find there really wasn't that much of a performance advantage between the two locations?
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 12:17:47 PM
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jonnymagnum
Posts: 4614
Joined: 9/4/2005
From: ontario, canada
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ya, my 88 dak used to have the same setup. I drilled acouple holes in it so it wuld flow abit better.
but acouple people have switched to that set up. I know meangrean did. and he noticed a difference.
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05 dodge ram daytona RCSB 4x4 hemi #5212
99 dakota 4x4 318 - sold
88 dakota 2wd 3.9
90 dakota 2wd 3.9 rcsb 5speed
93 jeep grand cherokee 4x4
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/9/2007 7:45:38 PM
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dodgedakota98luver
Posts: 391
Joined: 11/13/2005
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my truck still uses the Stock air box but i removed the tube that draws the air and replaced it and ran it in between the Headlight and the radiator so it gets 100% air from outside the engine bay and is somewhat forced in when driving down the road. I always stick it back in the fender when it rains though.
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/11/2007 4:37:44 PM
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tsmooth
Posts: 9
Joined: 1/29/2007
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I got a CAI on ebay as well and it cost me 27 dollars with shipping. Thats about seven dollars more than you would pay for a stock filter, and the throttle response i noticed was way cool. I never got that with the stock air filter. and no my air isn't cold but it diffently has a better air mixture going on, so i guess to answer the question the yes it should be called "fairly luke warm air intake"
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/12/2007 12:54:41 AM
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Megashifter
Posts: 211
Joined: 6/27/2005
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Different solution: Reflexxions cowl hood with the center bracing removed. K&N 14" round filter w/K&N X-Stream filter lid. Modified 'shaker' hood scoop (bottom half) as cold air box. Does it work? Yepper! Above 40mph the cowl works like a champ. 
< Message edited by Megashifter -- 3/12/2007 12:56:04 AM >
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/18/2007 9:39:50 PM
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imnothot02
Posts: 2245
Joined: 7/18/2005
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what happened to the experement i wanted to see the #'s!!!  
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1987 Grand Am 2.5 L Inline(Just keeps going and going...)
Can't forget the work van 04 3500 EXPRESS lol
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/18/2007 9:41:33 PM
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jonnymagnum
Posts: 4614
Joined: 9/4/2005
From: ontario, canada
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I was looking for this post too, but I couldnt find it. maybe virused got a lil side tracked and forgot about it.
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05 dodge ram daytona RCSB 4x4 hemi #5212
99 dakota 4x4 318 - sold
88 dakota 2wd 3.9
90 dakota 2wd 3.9 rcsb 5speed
93 jeep grand cherokee 4x4
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/18/2007 9:42:55 PM
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imnothot02
Posts: 2245
Joined: 7/18/2005
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guessing so i havnt seen his posts latley
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---Travis---
2002 Chevy Trailblazer LT 4.2
1996 Subaru SVX LSi AWD 3.3 L Flat 6 (Highway car)
1987 Grand Am 2.5 L Inline(Just keeps going and going...)
Can't forget the work van 04 3500 EXPRESS lol
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RE: Cold Air Intake my A** - 3/19/2007 8:36:29 AM
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HankL
Posts: 2719
Joined: 8/20/2005
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Why wait for someone else to do this experiment?
Is is not true 'science' unless two people do the experiment
and find that their results about the same.
{they never exactly match. Perfect matches are signs of fraud}
Here's some suggested ways to do the air intake test:
-----
Two great American brothers
with only high school educations
had a DIY project
that they eventually called the 'Airplane'
but like the Wright Brothers
you need to do your DIY project with careful testing.
If you want a real answer you can trust about an air intake design,
then........
Go down to Sears and buy one of the $30-70 multimeters with the temperature
probe. Sometimes they are on sale for $19
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Electrical+Shop&pid=03482139000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Multi-Meters%2C+Testers+%26+Accessories&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes
or
http://tinyurl.com/ywcsxv
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/03482139000?rgn=0,0,640,640&scl=2.56&fmt=jpeg
Later you can use this relatively cheap multimeter and its Type K thermocouple
to 'balance' your exhaust gas temperatures by swapping around the highest
flowing fuel injectors to the highest flowing intake ports....but that is
another story.
Then buy one of these $30 gauges that can measure low pressures and buy a
length of plastic tubing about 10 feet long to attach to it:
http://flw.com/olash2.htm#1490
Get the 30/30" pressure model.
If you don't want to spend this money you can also make a simple "U tube
manometer" with just a 20 foot length of clear plastic tubing and a yardstick:
Now drill small 1/16 th inch diameter holes in your stock air filter housing
and air inlet tubing,
like at:
1. at the begining of the inlet tube
2. in front of the air filter element
3. behind the air filter element
4. near the throttle body connection
Put a fresh new air filter element in your stock filter box. Go out on a road
with little traffic and measure the temperature and pressures at your small
hole test points of the stock system when the engine is at wide open throttle
through the 2000 to 6000 rpm range.
If you find between two points that the temperature goes up, then the air is
picking up heat in that length between the two points. (i predict you won't
find much heat pickup)
If you find that the pressures go down between two points then there is
restriction in that section, like across the filter element ( i predict you
will only find a small restriction across the paper element of the filter)
Now try moving the air inlet to the stock filter box from its stock location
to other places - like the grille top or bottom. Look for a place where the
pressure is highest and the temperature is lowest. (I predict you will find
that the cavity behind the firewall and below the windshield will be best -
this is also where your air vents pick up air to ventilate the truck's cabin)
Now, if you are a bit more adventurous try the following experiment:
With all the stock air system in place, put the truck in 2nd gear and measure
with a stop watch how many seconds it takes to accelerate from 3000 rpm to
6000 rpm with wide open throttle. Do this test 3 times and average the
result.
Now if you are a little more daring and have found a clean road with little
dust in the air, think about doing the following 2 tests (it is optional but
informative)
Do the same test from 3000 to 6000 rpm, but with the paper air filter removed
from the box, and the box closed back up. This is the 'no filter but cool air
pickup' test.
Then do the same test, but with the air intake system removed and the throttle
body opening sucking the hot air from underneath the hood. This is the 'no
filter hot air pickup test.'
The above tests sound dangerous without an air filter, but I can tell you
that many highway patrol officers removed the air filters on their cars in the
1970s. I have personally seen people pour uncooked rice down carburetors to
scour out carbon deposits. Lack of an air filter over long periods will cause
the bore walls and piston rings to wear out much quicker, but a quick test has
little effect unless you are unlucky enough to get a large chunk of something
down the throttle. If you are worried you can cover the throttle opening with
some eighth inch hole window screen material or mesh stocking. Note that these volunteers did open open throttle/no filter test of a 5.7 Hemi in an LX on a rear wheel dyno:
http://www.****.com/board/showthread.php?t=14140
look at runs 7,8,9 and see how the hp was down compared to the 280 hp of the stock factory airbox.
Now go order the aftermarket air inlet systems of your choice and repeat the
pressure, temperature and 3000-6000 rpm acceleration tests in 2nd gear. Send
back the systems that don't do as well as the best for a refund of your money.
Report your results to automotive forums.
You will be a hero to some,
the worst possible news to others selling junk.
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