On my 93 Stealth I have been having a problem to keep it running when it warms up. It runs very rough and when you get it gas it either stalls or boggs. I have checked the plugs visuallly and they look fine but when I put a coventual timing light on each of the plug wires only two of them (each on different coil packs) have a constant flickering light. The other 4 are very sparatic and even when at a higher RPm they will not flicker at all until the RPM drops and then they flicker sparatically again. I have put new 8MM plug wires on and no change what so ever. Any Ideas what my problem may be?
Thanks Darrell

ORIGINAL: 93Stealth

On my 93 Stealth I have been having a problem to keep it running when it warms up. It runs very rough and when you get it gas it either stalls or boggs. I have checked the plugs visuallly and they look fine but when I put a coventual timing light on each of the plug wires only two of them (each on different coil packs) have a constant flickering light. The other 4 are very sparatic and even when at a higher RPm they will not flicker at all until the RPM drops and then they flicker sparatically again. I have put new 8MM plug wires on and no change what so ever. Any Ideas what my problem may be?
Thanks Darrell


Hey Darrell,
I have no definate answer to your question, but I will try to point you in the right direction. I basically flows like this, ECU tells the PTU (power trans unit) to fire the coil packs. One coil pack runs two plugs 1-3, 2-4, 3-6 The ECU gets it signals from the crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor. I cannot remember if the 1st gens had the cam angle sensor or if it was in the 2nd gens. 1st gen is from 91 to 93, 2nd gen is from 94 to 96 for the Stealths.

This is just a guess, but I am thinking it could be the ECU from the description you gave. There are capicitors in the ECU that are known to start leaking, this could be giving you your sporadic firing, again I am just speculating. The manual did not give me any definate answer in its troubleshooting section.

You may want to post your question on 3si.org/forum as there is a much broader knowledge base there.

Let me know how it turns out.

Many thanks for your reply - thestealth. On the weekend I thought I would tackle the ECU but your reply about the cam angle got me thinking. Took off the two timing covers and inner splash sheild, turned the crank until the timing marks on the front bank lined up. They matched the marks perfectly then, looked at the rear bank and the intake cam is off 4 coggs on the pulley and the exhaust cam is off 2 coggs from the respective arrows on the head. Haven't got the cover of to check the crank sprocket yet. Only have the tensioner, alt and motor mount of so far. (Do I need a puller for the crank pulley or will it just slip off?) Got a new belt on order ($188 CDN) unreal!! It's going to take a few days to come so no rush I guess. My next question is could the jumped cams put the firing order out of wack does it have anything to do with the cam angle sensors or should I still investigate the ECU? Might just wait till I get the new belt on, eh>
Thanks Again Darrell

Sometimes you can get lucky and get the crank pulley off, more than likely you will need a puller. If you are changing the T-belt, go ahead and change the water pump, tensioner and idler pulley while you are in there. In the long run you'll be happy you did.

The t-belt having jumped a few teeth will definatly cause you timing to be off. I am unsure if your 93 has Cam angle sensors or not. I know one of the generations of stealth/3000gt had them, just do not know which generation.

I would start with replacing the belt, tensioners, and water pump. Get the timing set, based on the marks, and see what happens. When you replace the belt, try to install in ONE tooth retarded. When you release the tension on the belt, it should be lined up at that time. That little "tip" was in the service manual.

Good luck.

Thanks Again - the stealth. Your right, it would be a good idea to replace the two tensioner pulleys and the water pump. The alt and the motor mount are not the easiest to remove. What a weird and awkward place for the alternator idler adjustment bolt! Goin to phone for prices right away.When you say one tooth retarted are you meaning the crank sprocket only. Should I just position the mark on the sprocket one tooth behind the indicator on the block?

Thanks Darrell

ORIGINAL: 93Stealth

Thanks Again - the stealth. Your right, it would be a good idea to replace the two tensioner pulleys and the water pump. The alt and the motor mount are not the easiest to remove. What a weird and awkward place for the alternator idler adjustment bolt! Goin to phone for prices right away.When you say one tooth retarted are you meaning the crank sprocket only. Should I just position the mark on the sprocket one tooth behind the indicator on the block?
Thanks Darrell


That is the way I read it in the manual. I will be home today around 6:00CMT. I will double check the manual at that time. I'll let you know, I would not want to be giving out misinformation. But that is how I remember it.

Hey - Thanks Again - Priced out the pump and pulleys. The water pump is $234 CDN, The pulleys are $63 and $69. I remember someone had posted earlier that these 3000 motors are pricey for parts. Was he right!! I'm going to check the pump before I replace it but I will replace the tensioner and idler pulleys. When ever you get a chance you can pass on the timing sprocket info.
Thanks Darrell

Here is what the manual has for t-belt installation. The manual is for a 1992.

I have to upload it in two pages, the next one will follow.

Here is page two. This should give you most of what you need to know ;)

I would go ahead and replace the water pump while you are in there. It could start leaking at any time if it has not been replaced. You will then have to go through all of this pain in the ass again.

Good luck.

Many - Many Thanks - thestealth. Both pics printed perfectly. The info is going to very helpful. Pulled the crank pulley off last night, came off pretty good, just wiggled it. The marking on the sprocket is just about bang on to where it should be, looks like just the cam sprockets on the rear bank jumped. Mine has a indicating notch in a thin plate behind the sprocket unlike the your pic that shows an actual indicator plate. Maybe the difference between the years. Phone the local parts store to get the water pump and they said 7 to 10 day delivery. So phoned the local Dodge Dealer and their price is $370 CDN still a week delivery! I know some people think Canada is out in the Back Woods but this is %#@<%$ ridiculous.
Thanks Again Darrell

No problem, glad I can help.

I believe it cost me about 200usd when I bought my water pump at a local parts place. I just hope no other damage occurred when the belt jumped time.

Hey Billy:
Got everthing off last night except for the belt and pulleys. Belt is a bit sloppy, can move the crank about a 1/2 tooth each way before the belt tension up. Hopefully the auto tensioner is still good. Not very much room in them sucker, eh! Got one more question on the alt. I unbolted it on the weekend but tried to remove it last night. Took off the bracket, unbolted the A/C line clamps, still no room. Do I have to remove the Rad fan housing or is there an easier way? My Mitchel disc is not very explanitory and has no instrcutions on how to remove it from the car (It just says to remove 4 alt bolts and remove from car??):eek:

Thanks Darrell

local://upfiles/2260/CE62488A1D5C4985B4C5DB3271128EA9.jpg

I'll see what the manual say when I get home about the alt.

Thanks Billy - That would be great. I could leave it in but the front two bolts of the bottom part of the motor mount were a bitch to get at with alt sitting down there.

Many Thanks Again

Hey Darrel, As near as I can tell from the manual, there are 4 bolts on the alt. bracket and the long bolt and nut that attaches the alt to the bracket. It also shows removing the harnesses off of the alt. It was easy when I removed it, but that was 2 years ago, and for the life of me I cannot remember how I did it. There does not appear to be anything special or tricky about it according to the manual.
It does show loosening the air conditioning suction hose by removing the 3 nuts that hold the clamps on, then using a cord to hold it up out of your way. Do not loosen the A/C fitting, unless you want to recharge your system.;)

Hey Billy - Went to pick up the Belt and would you believe it they ordered the Power steering belt and the character behind the counter says "Are You Sure This Is Not The Timing Belt?" Looked at the order form and it says "Timing Belt" with a totally different part number than what was shipped. The guy had the balls to say I had to pay a restocking charge. Yes- on $188.00 - Bullsh---. After an exchange of a few pleasantries and well wishes; went to NAPA. Only $176.00 but 4 days delivery.

Thought yesterday I would remove the belt from the sprockets. Damn is there a lot of tension on that belt. Like a dummy I removed the tensioner pulley before the Automatic tensioner. Snapped back pretty quick! Anyone else doing this I would advise using a 14mm wrench on the pulley center bolt after loosening the adjuster slide bolt and apply pressure as you remove the two Auto tensioner bolts, then slowly release the wrench. Installation would be reverse. YES - My hand still hurts...[&:]

Ah hell Darrell, I thought the belt was already off of the car. To little to late now, but if you ever have to do it again, wire tie your cam spockets together so the cams won't move (very much) when tension is released.

My bad, I should not have assumed anything.

Thanks Billy - Great tip. Right now I have the old belt sitting on the cam pulleys (which are now lined up on the marks) with the paper clip tip you showed me. I think when I remove the clips and touch the belt the pulleys are going to go in every direction. With your new tip - I am going to wire the cam sprockets even before I put the new belt on, then use the paper clips once the marks are in line. Last night I stood back and wondered how the heck was I going to get the new belt on without disturbing the pulleys once I reset them. Yes, at the same time I was rubbing my hand to get feeling back in it!
Thanks to you - problem solved!!!:)

Many THANKS Darrell