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Your header install

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Your header install - 12/1/2006 12:13:12 AM   
baldyloxs


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Ok guys\girls gonna get me some longtubes,I want ot know what was the hardest part on your install? Was it the removal of the old stuff includeing the studs,or was it just the fact that if you had a hoist would make it easier?I wanna be able to do it myself if its not a HUGE PAIN in the *@#,plus I am sure the Dealer want a fortune to do it .
thanks Marty

< Message edited by baldyloxs -- 12/1/2006 1:45:59 AM >


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RE: Your header install - 12/1/2006 12:49:35 AM   
RT 2 NV


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i looked into it awhile back and they local motor shop wanted $1000 with the parts. i would like to do it my self have the $500 in labor. i would like more info on install too. thanks.

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RE: Your header install - 12/1/2006 7:47:20 AM   
baldyloxs


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No problem

< Message edited by baldyloxs -- 12/1/2006 7:50:37 AM >


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RE: Your header install - 12/1/2006 7:59:07 AM   
MangoInTX



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Here's a bit of information that should help Header Install.

<edit>
The hardest part of the install:

1. Accessing to a couple of bolts on the passenger side (top middle and front). The OEM exhaust manifolds come off without much issue it's the headers that makes getting to some of the bolts interesting.

2. The heat shields have been problems for quite a few, in my experience taking your time and pulling them out from the rear of the engine it takes maybe 5 minutes each, bend and twist them they will come out in one piece.

If you want to undo the motor mounts and raise the engine a hoist it would make it easier. There really isn't a need for that. You will need to jack-up the car; with all the bending and twisting you do the higher it's off the floor the easier it is on your body. You don't have to jack-up all 4 corners but I would recommend it. I used 4 - 4 ton jack stands just because they gave me 23" of clearance from the floor. 2 ton jack stands will work fine but normally they don't have the height the 4 tons do.

Some folks took off the oil filter to ease access to some of the bolts. I worked around the oil filter, it's tight but it can be done without removing it.

The oil dip stick is another point of contention. Only one nut holds it on but getting in out and back in is a pain. Take your time, you have to pull it out sideways towards the rear of the car and then you’re able to pull it out. Again just take your time and use a few four letter words on it. Having another pare of hands would help.

< Message edited by MangoInTX -- 12/1/2006 9:56:34 AM >

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RE: Your header install - 12/1/2006 11:44:16 PM   
baldyloxs


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hey Mango I get nothing on their it tell my page is gone or outdated?

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RE: Your header install - 12/2/2006 10:06:42 AM   
440nix

 

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yes, i had my long tube headers installed by dealer. he charged me 400. doller exact.
took 3 - 4 hours.
also changed o2's for free. he said he cound not get others out.
i also bought some exhaust gaskets. 9.00 dollers .
i wanted fresh seat for headers to sit on. they said they could use old one's , but i wanted new one's.
the hardest thing he said was the heat sheld on drivers side , he had to bend it alittle.
some spots in the stock manifold , so you can slide the out with out removing studs.
hope this helps.

go mango 1342
mopar cai
mopar headers
corsa exhaust

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RE: Your header install - 12/2/2006 10:14:22 AM   
MangoInTX



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Anyone else having problems getting to this PDF file? http://home.comcast.net/~rgdixon/Charger/Exhaust/HeaderInstall.pdf

That's good to know 440nix, most of the headers come w/gaskets. Which headers did you get?

<edit> baldyloxs, try right clicking on the link and select "Save Targer As..." this allows you to download the PDF file to your local drive.


< Message edited by MangoInTX -- 12/2/2006 10:16:56 AM >

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RE: Your header install - 12/2/2006 7:39:08 PM   
baldyloxs


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Got it ! what was the part Number you used for the bolts 150-101?Thanks Mango
I got a place to do my friend at work has a 10,000 hoist so I guess we are hitting it this spring .

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RE: Your header install - 12/2/2006 10:05:20 PM   
MangoInTX



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Breslin has Chromemoly 008-027 and Stainless Steel 608-027, I used Stainless.



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RE: Your header install - 12/4/2006 11:56:42 PM   
baldyloxs


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Thanks Mango you are the best !!!!!! Are those studs in the stock manifolds or bolts?
thanks Marty

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RE: Your header install - 12/5/2006 9:55:33 AM   
MangoInTX



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It's a combo. There's like 4 stud/bolts that hold the heat shield on each side. Below, in the first pic, the one on the left is the stud/bolt the other is the normal bolt.

One of the stud/bolts will remain on the passanger side front for the oil dip stick. Be sure to note where this one is located so you put it back in the correct hole . Your headers should come with a spacer that goes between that bolt and the header.

As you can probably tell the stud/bolt goes through the heat shield and a nut holds it on (see second pic). <edit> circled in red are the nuts on the top of the stud/bolt which are holding the heat shield on.




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< Message edited by MangoInTX -- 12/5/2006 9:56:48 AM >

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RE: Your header install - 12/5/2006 11:59:44 AM   
baldyloxs


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Ok gotcha I was thinking they just had studs like the older one s.Thanks for the nice pics
marty

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RE: Your header install - 12/5/2006 2:30:45 PM   
karleysDAD

 

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Just my cents, The take out was easy. Putting in the JBA'S......The drivers side gave a hard time on the center top bolt. you cant fit your fingers in the tubes and from the bottum ya cant reach over, Jack it up let it down, top to underneth. ya can only use two finger tips to get it seated. The passengers side was a lot easier. And I only removed one side motor mount at a time but kept the other side loose for more room when ya jack it up.

The best tool bought for this job was. (180 degree pivoting ratchet wrench set/ it only needs 5 degree swing to turn the bolt)

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RE: Your header install - 12/6/2006 12:06:35 AM   
baldyloxs


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Thanks everyone I have all the needed tools even an o2 socket.How hard was it to get the torque wrench in there?

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RE: Your header install - 12/6/2006 10:38:05 AM   
MangoInTX



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I agree taking the manifolds out is easy compared to installing the headers.

On the drivers side there's more room than the passenger. For the drivers side with the air breather off and the radiator overflow bolts out I propped up the radiator overflow w/a small piece of a 2x4. This gave enough room to get my arm in there for the top bolts.

Anyhew, would like to know where you jacked the engine up at, where was the jack point?

quote:

baldyloxs
Thanks everyone I have all the needed tools even an o2 socket. How hard was it to get the torque wrench in there?


You can use a 7/8 open end wrench to loose/tighten the O2 sensors but a O2 socket sounds even better.

Torquing is just as eash as accessing the bolt,some are not easy to get to. But if you can jack-up the engine per karleysDAD then you shouldn't have any issues torquing all of them.

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