I have a question.My buddy has a 70 CUDA that hasnt been hadwashed in 10+ years.He recently got it running good with the exception of it throwing the belts off when he ROMPS on it .Ok back the the question is it feasable to try and clay the car to get some of the luster back?I told him I would help him clean it up cause, I totally love the way it looks and sounds. The car still looks good and paint is in good shape he really wants to drive it to work.
Marty
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I would clay it. I did my Superbee and I couldn't be more happy. My car has not see water in over 4 years. I only clean it with dusters and special clothes. I did the clay bar and was shocked that my $8500 paint job had crap in it. Now she is so smooth. With my car, I dusted like normal, then sprayed the detailer spray and rubbed her down with the clay. After everything dried, I sprayed a little more detailer spray and buffed off. If you have any questions about it, PM me.
Marty, I would probably try a good wax/cleaner first. That would, I think, give an indication of whether or not it would be feasible to clay or not. Maybe use a mild polishing compound or rubbing compound to see if it will take off the oxidized coating and produce a shine. Then, I would think about claying. But, that's just my opinion.
I seldom disagree with you, but in this case I think your sequence is alittle out of order. Clay is a prefered way to prep the surface of a unit prior to doing anything further. The next phase should be the rubbing compound; preferably a light repairing compound except where absolutely necessary for a more course material, to repair deep etching.
With the advent of the synthetic finishes; my experienced preference being the McGuire's Next Generation, there is a good chance to actually fill much of the remaining depressions in the car finish. On this older vehicle, I'd likely advise the owner to use a minimum of 3 coats of the synthetic to get a solid fill and bonded coats in preperation for the topcoat.
Where most folks stop here, I insist on a exceptionally hard topcoat. The purpose of this is obvious, to seal the prevous work done, and allow the carnuba wax to be the primary materials that will daily face the elements. I use a product that I get at the Harley shop; a small white tub called S-100. Relatively expensive, but an exceptional tough product, smooth as silk to apply, yet hard as hell to penetate once its cured.
Well ok ok..abit more than 2 cents worth, but I'm known for being wordy.
10+ years
