For a few weeks now my 99 Durango has been only braking by the front two brakes which as some of you may know is very scary because stopping this tank is next to impossible without all 4 brakes working properly.
I 'assume' the rear isn't working because when I brake, the front wheels just lock up while the rear is still rolling.
The weird thing is that the front brakes lock up even when the slightest pressure is applied to the pedal no matter what speed I am traveling.
Can there be a problem with both the front and the rear brakes??? Or could something be not operating correctly causing the front brakes to lock and nothing to the rear brakes?
I was just going to buy some rear shoes and open up the rear brake drums but if any of you have different suggestions, please help. Thanks
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I would say take those drums off and look at it before jumping to conclusions on anything else. I imagine without any pads left in the back it could cause the D to lunge forward moreso in a braking situation and cause it to lock up like you are saying. How many miles are on the rears?
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2000 Durango 5.9L SLT+ Flowmaster 40 "Custom" Ram Air 31" BFG AT T/A KO's Bilstein Shocks Hidden Hitch Sirius Satelite Radio E-fan conversion Smittybilt brushguard SSU's
sounds like a proportioning valve you have one from the factory,take it to a good brake shop its worth your life
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2001 5.9 with heads ,cam,alum. roller rockers,headers,true duals with 40s flowmasters,55 milim. tb,mopar intake new fuel rails,,and so on....
I already did a right up and corrective action on this problem so I did a search under (rear brakes) and this will fix your proplem:
I tried everything and finally found the most stupidest thing. The rear automatic adjusters were bad causing the front to do all the work. The rear shoes where not adjusting out to cover the wear of the shoes. Replaced the auto adjusters and problem solved. The problem is the dowel on the shoe were the adjusters pivot is too big and allows for side to side movement which causes the tooth on the auto adjusters to wear off and not grab the adjustment screw. Looked like a manufactures flaw. Bought the full set from NAPA for $15 bucks a side. Remember to change out the dowel. You will see the difference in the openings.
You have to grind the back of the dowel off and drill the hole a small bit bigger and hammer the new dowel in. Make sure you look at the touching surface between the adjusters and the adjusting screw very carefully. The adjuster is not supposed to come out towards you that far. The new ones pivot perfectly.
I already did a right up and corrective action on this problem so I did a search under (rear brakes) and this will fix your proplem:
I tried everything and finally found the most stupidest thing. The rear automatic adjusters were bad causing the front to do all the work. The rear shoes where not adjusting out to cover the wear of the shoes. Replaced the auto adjusters and problem solved. The problem is the dowel on the shoe were the adjusters pivot is too big and allows for side to side movement which causes the tooth on the auto adjusters to wear off and not grab the adjustment screw. Looked like a manufactures flaw. Bought the full set from NAPA for $15 bucks a side. Remember to change out the dowel. You will see the difference in the openings.
You have to grind the back of the dowel off and drill the hole a small bit bigger and hammer the new dowel in. Make sure you look at the touching surface between the adjusters and the adjusting screw very carefully. The adjuster is not supposed to come out towards you that far. The new ones pivot perfectly.
or for a kid like me that may not have the time to do all that at lest you know what your up against if taking it to the break shop so they don't sqrew you over.. ps DAMN Hydrashocker you really do know your stuff.....
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2000 SLT+ 5.9
custome intake
no good TB spacer :-)
3inch flow master exhaust
160 t-stat
10" Rockford Fosgate sub
300 wat amp