This was done on a 1994 Ram 1500 with a 5.9L. I am pretty sure that it is the same way for a 1995, and possibly for the rest of the 2nd gen Rams.

Before I start, I should say that this truck has MSD ignition and electric fans, so for you Ram owners running stock ignition/coil and clutch fan, it will look different, and be alot more work. However, you can change the tensioner without removing the clutch fan, having it out of the way just makes things easier. Also, I have forcably remove the AC lines, hence the drops of what looks like oil on the frame rails.

Items needed:
14mm socket/ratchet or wrench
15mm pass-through socket or wrench *a regular 15mm socket will not work, and I do not think that a deep socket will fit*
New Belt Tensioner Assembly

Step 1.
Disconnect your battery. Anytime I do any work under the hood, I do so...as you cant be safe enough.

Put your 15mm socket or wrench on the tensioner bolt, and pull it clockwise. I would recommend putting the wrench at the 6pm, or 9pm location, as to avoid hitting the engine with the wrench or getting in your own way when removing the belt. Once you have pushed the wrench as far as it will go, there will be slack in the belt, and you can pull it off.


If you are using the stock ignition and coil, you will then want to remove the coil wire atop the coil, and unplug the harness going to the bottom of the coil, as its easier with them out of the way.


Step 2.
To replace the tensioner, you only need to remove one bolt, and loosen one bolt. At first glance, the "easy" way to gain access to the mounting bolt for the tensioner is to remove the two screws holding the stock coil in place, but I found out that on a 12 year old truck, the screws holding the coil in place are destroyed. Unless yours look to be in excellent shape, I wouldnt even bother, as my way is very simple.


Instead, remove the top bolt, highlighted here, with your 14 mm socket of wrench


and directly under the bracket there is a bolt in the same relative position. It is hard to see, with the bracket in place, but once you loosen the bottom bolt JUST enough to pivot the bracket down away from the engine a bit you can see it, shown here. This is also a 14mm bolt.


Once you have the coil bracket pivoted aside, you will be able to see the bolt holding the tensioner to the bracket.


Mine took a little effort to break it loose, but then it came off smoothly, using a 15 mm socket or wrench. This is where it helps to have a pass-through socket set. Once you remove this bolt, it should come right off. The back of the tensioner looks like this:


Notice the raised point, and the hole cut into the tensioner mounting bracket, you will want to make sure that that raised point is in the hole. It wont work otherwise.

Once you have the old tensioner out, youre basically done, as its just putting things back together.

Put the 15mm nut back on the tensioner bolt.

Replace the coil bracket, put the top bolt in first and snug it down, then tighten the bottom bolt, then the top.

Reconnect your coil wire and harness if you are running stock items.

Replace your serpentine belt by again putting the 15mm socket or wrench on the tensioner pulling it clockwise. Once your belt is on, make sure that it is sitting properly in all of the pulleys.

For those who may not have a routing decal, here is a picture of the proper routing.


..and taa daa! Your done!


Any questions, feel free to ask me!


Ram2ndGen

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