I kind of feel odd not knowing this, I think I did know at one point...

But I know Dodge used at least two different turbos on the Daytonas. My own Pacifica has what they called the Turbo 2. Does anyone know what turbos went with each year--etc?

This is kind of random so I apologize, but I really liked the Turbo 2 and may be taking on a new Daytona (mine is just too out of shape for me to bare with I think). So that's why I ask.

I thought all Pacifica's came with the 2.2L Turbo I's. Does your's have an intercooler next to the radiator on the drivers side with a hose on top going into the air box? I'm not doubting you, I'm just questioning my own knowledge, I've never had any experience with a Pacifica.[sm=smiley24.gif]

The 2.2L Turbo I's were avaliable from '84-'88 I believe.
The 2.2L Turbo II's were avaliable from '87-'90.
The 2.2L Turbo III's were avaliable from '91-'93.
Then there's the 2.5L Turbo from '89-'92 I believe.

Which turbo was best for performnace and reliability?

The Turbo II's. The Turbo I's and 2.5L Turbo's were non-intercooled, so they were less reliable. And the Turbo III's had head problems. My Turbo II Shelby Z went 200,000+ miles before any problems occured, and then it wasn't turbo related, it was a wrist pin. The 2.2L Turbo II is the second most powerful and by far the most reliable, as it is intercooled.[sm=smiley20.gif]

From 1984 thru 1987 Chrysler used a Garrett turbo on all 2.2's. Starting in 1988 the "new" blow thru design 2.2 & 2.5 turbo I models got a Mitsu. made turbo (TOE4). After 1987 the only models that got the Garrett's where the TII, TIII, and TIV with an intercooler (i.e. Shelby Z, Shadow & Daytona VNT, Spirit & Daytona R/T, and anything offered by Shelby except the 1988 CSX-T which got the Mitsu Turbo)

The Mitsu turbo is a good solid unit and spools up allot faster than the Garrett because of its smaller size, but it has problems with spiking at high boost settings. The Garrett is a proven unit and holds steady boost even upwards of 20+ lbs. The Garrett is the best of the 2, but it all depends upon how much boost you are planning on running. If stock boost with a fast spool-up gets your rocks off, a Mitsu maybe the way to go. But if you need a bigger kick in the rear, then the Garrett may be what you want to reach for.

So if I follow this right, my Daytona ES is a turbo I set-up... so that would meen non-intercooled. But if I did want to intercool the engine, could I use a generic kind of set-up and fabricate mounts to put the intercooler in the front of the radiator? And would it be feasable to run a medium sized intercooler on my car with stock boost?

ORIGINAL: snappyjr

So if I follow this right, my Daytona ES is a turbo I set-up... so that would meen non-intercooled. But if I did want to intercool the engine, could I use a generic kind of set-up and fabricate mounts to put the intercooler in the front of the radiator? And would it be feasable to run a medium sized intercooler on my car with stock boost?



You should have no problem intercooling your car and should be fairly easy to do since your Daytona is already a "draw thru" design. You just need to fab up some custom stuff (intercooler $ plunbing) to do it, or get an 87 and up Shelby Z or Labaron GTC radiator and intercoller combo w/plumbing that would be a direct bolt in peice.:D

Yep, or contact Forward Motion for an add on intercooler kit for the non-intercooled turbo cars. Here's a link to them: http://www.forwardmotioninc.com

Another good place to visit is www.fwdperformance.com . If they don't have what you need....no one does;)

Thanks for the link 87Indy500, I've never been there before.[sm=smiley20.gif]

Arr, I wish I had a turbo on my 3.0L...Dman..i am stuck at 145hp...Arrrr

Your 3.0L has almost the exact same output has a 2.2L Turbo I, but without any of the turbo lag.

Only less top end power with the 3.0[:@]

But a HELL of a torque Monster out of the hole.;)

You people are good at this, lots of knowledge.... I need to get my lights working, then i am gonna try to fab up an intercooler.... thanks for the answers to the questions. One more though (for now) what kind of benefits would you get from putting a manual boost control in the daytona set-up?

Well for starters you will have the ability of setting the boost to what ever you feel comfortable with running and be able to "tune" your car, for example every day use or a Sunday at the track with a turn of a knob. Plus you will have constant, steady boost. When you add a M.B.C you take away the ability of the comp to regulate the amount of boost. The computer senses atmospheric pressures and air temp to calculate the amount of boost for the current conditions that the car is experiencing. High or low boost conditions depending on what the computer thinks is sufficient based upon the sensor readings. That function would now be the soul responsibility of the M.B.C.

One word of CAUTION! Using a M.B.C does not mean that you can just simply crank-da-boost until you can light up the skins in all forward gears. I would HIGHLY (I can't stress this enough) recommend that you install a boost and EGT gauge to keep a eye on things. You can make a beautiful matching set of 4 cast aluminum "bottomless" ashtrays in the blink of an eye for you friends to marvel at while you putting you car up on jack stands to rebuild the bottom end.[:@] So please be smart and spend the money on the gauges first, then on the M.B.C.

Be sure to read up an these pages before you go "ball's deep" on the mods. The 1st link is to a site that explains how to make a safe home made boost controller for about $30 and a Mcmaster Carr or Grainger catalog. Both links are overflowing with the do's and don'ts of 2.2 and 2.5 turbo engines.

http://home.earthlink.net/~turbogus/index-old.html

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/


PS. Sadly Gus Mahon was killed in a motorcycle accident 2 years ago, but the Shelby Dodge community(?) has kept his web site up and running for people to view and learn from his experiences with 2.2 turbo cars. He is the father of the G-valve or Gus-valve, his own version of a M.B.C

Good luck
Troy

You sure do seem to have some pretty neat links.[sm=smiley20.gif]

ORIGINAL: 71RoadRunner

You sure do seem to have some pretty neat links.[sm=smiley20.gif]



If you play around with these FWD cars like I do, the links just seem to find you.;)

I understand the reasons for going easy on the boost... I think I heard that running around 7lbs of boost is safe for the Daytona's, but I don't know for sure, and seeing how you guys know way more about this than me... yeah. I am just still doing research right now, I want to have a decent idea what is going on in my car before i go and do anything major to it as far as boost goes. anyways, thanks for the help, you people are great at this stuff

Don't forget about good'ol Mother Mopar. They offer performance calibrated computers for the 2.2/2.5 liter cars. They are usually good for about 5 to 7 lbs more boost, plus a modified fuel and timing curve to make things safe for the engine. I put one in my daily driver (86 GLH Turbo) and I noticed a considerable amout of pick-up in the horse power dept. The perf. computers are "I think" a good place to start. www.fwdperformance.com sells them also, plus that will do "custom" calibrations as well if you want more boost or timing or whatever...

Good luck!

I'll second that. I had the Mopar Performance PCM(computer) in my Shelby Z and it brought the boost up from 7.5 psi to 12.5-13.5 psi, however in the winters cold air it would sometimes peg the 15 psi boost gauge.

So this computer will allow me to safely run a higher psi from the turbo? I was sorta aiming to run this car at 7-10 psi, but I want to do it safely. I have heard things about adding secondary injectors for high psi engines, would I have to do that if I was to add the performance computer?

No. You won't have to run an extra injector with the perf. comp. The only time you have to run an extra injector is for boost roughly above 18lbs. The only thing that may be nessary is to upgrade the stock injectors with some 804 injectors (available from Mopar & FWD perf.). You may not have to upgrade them but it may be a good idea down the road. I didn't upgrade mine yet and I drive it every day. I do wish I would have upgraded though. You will just have to see how your car reacts to the comp and your driving habits to determine if you need to upgrade. You will definatly have to run 92 octane or better to support the extra boost, unless you can control yourself and keep your foot out of it. I use 87 octane durring the week and I try to stay out of the gas for the most part, but on the weekends I run 93-94 octane.

ORIGINAL: 87Indy500

No. You won't have to run an extra injector with the perf. comp. The only time you have to run an extra injector is for boost roughly above 18lbs. The only thing that may be nessary is to upgrade the stock injectors with some 804 injectors (available from Mopar & FWD perf.). You may not have to upgrade them but it may be a good idea down the road. I didn't upgrade mine yet and I drive it every day. I do wish I would have upgraded though. You will just have to see how your car reacts to the comp and your driving habits to determine if you need to upgrade. You will definatly have to run 92 octane or better to support the extra boost, unless you can control yourself and keep your foot out of it. I use 87 octane durring the week and I try to stay out of the gas for the most part, but on the weekends I run 93-94 octane.


I have a very hard time keeping off of the gas, but the car is going to be a "fun" car. Thats good to know, I didn't realize that a performance computer would do that much.

15lBS OF BOOST.. holy moly THATS ALMOST 1 bar AM I CORRECT!!?? tHATS AT Import Super car territiory!!!

I wonder how much a small turbo for my lowly 3.0L will set be back?

Now correct me if I am wrong anyone, but couldn't you add a sort of belt-driven suppercharger set-up for your car kind of like what is offered by RIPP http://www.rippmods.com/. They are just a belt drive suppercharger. RIPP systems are expensive as all heck, but I don't see why you couldn't set one up on your own. Just a thought.

That can work as well, but turbochargers generally show bigger power gains out of the box.

not only do turbos get more out of the box but a supercharger also drains something like 30 hp for ever 100 hp gain. but on the other hand it is easier and safier to supercharge a non-turbo vehicle from what i have heard. ;).