2nd Gen Service Manual Download - AKA merry christmas thread.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_340929/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_340929/tm.htm)
OK, here we go... reply to this thread and I'll add to it the performance mods, and repairs that are common and un-common...
Check this out... picture resizing tool found here... www.irfanview.com (http://www.irfanview.com/) use this all the time and it works great!
Catalytic Converter:
The best way to test the cat is to have someone in the cab rev the motor to about 2000 or 2500 rpm's and put a temp gun on the input and output of the cat. the output should be around 50 deg hotter than the input for proper cat operation. if the temps are the same, the cat is not working, if the input temp is high and the output temp is low, you have a plugged cat and you should have it swapped out immediately.
Throttle Body:
1st things to check are a dirty throttle body, the IAC can get gunked up and not work right when cold (or even hot), The IAC is on the back of the TB near the firewall. pull the TB and give it a thorough cleaning.
Blown Plenum:
Look down into the intake manifold and look for oil pooling on the bottom of the intake, get a mirror and flashlight and look at all of the corners. any oil means your plenum is leaking and it needs to be fixed (APSPrecision.com for the kit). Get a new TB gasket when you put it back on and torque it down to spec.
TracBar:
When lifting a Ram 4x4, excessive tracbar wear will occur, there are several options out there...
http://www.dtprofab.com/dodge.htm
http://www.thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html
http://www.solidsteel.ca/news.htm
Auto Transmission:
For a bullet proof auto tranny...
http://www.apsprecision.com/
Surging at hiway speeds:
Throttle Position sensor noisy, this will cause the PCM to unlock and lock the torque converter which is seen as a surge. I think the TC gets locked as early as 3rd gear but not 100% sure.
another surging fix... http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_538721/tm.htm
Evap codes 442 & 445:
1) fix was split vacuum line at the top of the gas tank.
2) new gas cap.
Heads:
the stock heads are prone to cracking between the valves. this can be a cause for a miss that cannot be found. The R/T heads are the prefered replacement.
o2 sensors:
the prefered o2 sensor is the NGK ones... they seem to outlast some of the others out there.
Steering box leak: (2001ramsport)
have a look at this link http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/steeringbox.php
surging in overdrive at hiway speeds: (Racinfan83)
tps is noisy and needs to be replaced. the signal a noisy tps sends back to the pcm tells it that the throttle is open farther than it really is and the pcm unlocks the torque converter. the surging is about 200 rpms as the TC locks and un-locks.
I had the plugged cat problem and the heat took out my exhaust seat on the #8 cylinder which is right next to the cat...
Sport Headlight upgrade sources... this is the group buy (closed by now) where I got my sport headlight conversion.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=46547&old=78064
Fuel pump swap: there is a DIY writeup in the DIY forum.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_402587/tm.htm
coil spring table...
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/springs.htm
Foglights Stay On With Brights Mod....
This eliminates the relay that makes your foglights go off when you click on the high beams....(which is when you REALLY need that low close-up light)
I used a piece of normal size automotive wire about 1 1/2 inches long, stripped both ends and crimped on electrical spade lugs. You then find the "fog light relay" in the power distribution center (the black box behind your battery) and pull it out. There is a map of all the relays on the inside of the PDC lid. The fog light relay has 5 spades 3 that run sideways to the truck, and 2 that run parallel to the length of the truck. On mine these two were the closest to me. All you do is plug one spade on the jumper into one of the parallel terminals and the other end of the jumper to the other parallel terminal. They will end up plugged in next to each other. Picture and diagram is in the above link. Throw the relay in the glove compartment in case you ever need it.
Tranny Cooler Mod (courtesy of RacinFan83)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_286895/mpage_1/tm.htm#286895
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_616344/tm.htm (DIY writeup)
2nd Gen Bolt/Nut Thread
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_559020/tm.htm
ANNOUNCEMENT:cracked dashes and the nhtsa. please sign up.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_351576/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_351576/tm.htm)
Saftey Recall on Cold air intakes from K&N !!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_462374/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_462374/tm.htm)
RH Tranny service manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/228727/A500-42RH-A518-46RH-A618-47RH-Service-Manual (http://www.scribd.com/doc/228727/A500-42RH-A518-46RH-A618-47RH-Service-Manual)
Chrylser admits Catalytic converters bad 1996-2001
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_352822/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_352822/tm.htm)
Miles per gallon- What are you getting?
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_181077/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_181077/tm.htm)
alittle tip for everyone!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_527393/tm.htm (http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_527393/tm.htm)
tips & tricks for the rams
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm (http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm)
bamory
11-28-2005, 10:54 PM
MY STEERING SOLUTION THAT WORKED FOR ME
I would try the track bar first, then draglink that is attached to the pitman arm, have someone move steering wheel slowly while your under front end see if joints move and wheels dont, go slow looking at every ball joint and both ends of the trackbar.
After I replaced everything that was worn I adjusted my steering box, got a total of six turns out of it, using a wrench the fits the nut on the top of gearbox and an allen that fits the adjustment screw in the center of the nut loosen the nut but keep allen immobile, loosen nut so you can get a few good turns out of the allen screw, when nut is loose then turn the allen wrench clockwise to tighten the allen head down, snug it then back off a half of turn. then holding the allen immobile, tighten the nut back down, whole trick is to only let one thing move at once. hope this helps
The Burning Rom
11-29-2005, 05:51 AM
I posted all the 2nd diesel HP ratings in that thread where I posted the Gas motor ratings.
Also, add this website for bulletproof transmissions: http://www.dieseltrans.com/ For the diesel/V10 owners.
ljpierce_ely
11-29-2005, 12:37 PM
Hey Steve. Don't forget the Cylinder Head problem on the Magnum 360's!!! If you think that's worthy of mention.
steve05ram360
11-29-2005, 01:27 PM
Yes, absolutely the heads are a problem. what I think I'm gonna do is take all of the posts and compile the data at the top so readers dont have to go thru all of the posts that follow...
bamory
12-06-2005, 11:30 AM
I used this from Pavement Sucks and a good one by Steve on my waterpump and timing chain---very detailed---pay attention when they tell you which hoses to replace, I didnt replace my bypass and it leaked, had to tear partially down again.
oh how bout this one... i just helped a dude out the other day ,,,
02-04-00 94-01 Squeaking/Clicking Noise From Rear Leaf Springs
and go here for the fix and symptom cause
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/02-04-00.htm
steve05ram360
12-08-2005, 01:35 PM
once we get several up here, I'll update the top post. keep them coming...!
bamory
12-15-2005, 12:29 PM
Found this while surfing the net, tried it and it works great, makes all four bulbs burn at once for an extremely bright drive at nite
Possibly a new solution to an old problem.<br><br>I wanted to have my low beam lights to stay on when switching to high beams. I was poised with pen in hand getting ready to write a check for a Brite Box. Then I remembered that I was an electrical engineer and should be able to do this myself. I located the schematic for the lighting circuit in the manual and found out how it works. A simple procedure will eliminate the need for the Brite Box. There are those who will say that the light switch can't handle the current of both filaments being on at the same time. I have a 2002 so my switch maybe different than earlier years. I did, however, perform this modification to a friend's 2001 without any problems at all. To do the mod, remove the panel below the steering column. This will expose a bundle of wires coming from the multifunction switch as well as the horn, cruise control, etc. The wires of interest on my 2002 as well as my friend's 2001 are light green and violet with a white stripe. There are two light green wires. Make sure of the one you need before doing the mod. I used a piercing circuit tester light and found the correct light green wire by grounding the tester and piercing each light green wire and watching which wire caused the tester light to go on and off when the light switch was turned on and off. Having located the correct wires, I used a wire tap connector to short these two wires together. The wire tap is designed to allow you to connect a new wire to an existing circuit. In other words, one side of the tap goes all the way through and the other dead ends. Take a knife and cut the dead end plastic out so that both wires can go all the way through. Place both the light green wire and the violet with white stripe wire in the tap and press it home with pliers. Be careful not to short the pliers to ground while doing this. I used a dab of dielectric grease in the tap just to be safe from corrosion later on. What this mod does is simply short across the low beam disconnect contacts of the multifunction switch. This will make the low beam filaments light as long as the light switch is turned on with the multifinction switch in either high or low beam position. I can now see the road better and it cost me $0.11 instead of $95.00. Questions are welcome.
Racinfan83
12-18-2005, 04:34 AM
Good Tip!
rogerdoger
01-14-2006, 04:44 PM
BATTERY BOX SENSOR!!
This device shown in the pictures sit in the battery tray.
It's a temp sensor for the battery, and it helps determine charging rate at different temps.
Found this while surfing the net, tried it and it works great, makes all four bulbs burn at once for an extremely bright drive at nite
Possibly a new solution to an old problem.<br><br>I wanted to have my low beam lights to stay on when switching to high beams. I was poised with pen in hand getting ready to write a check for a Brite Box. Then I remembered that I was an electrical engineer and should be able to do this myself. I located the schematic for the lighting circuit in the manual and found out how it works. A simple procedure will eliminate the need for the Brite Box. There are those who will say that the light switch can't handle the current of both filaments being on at the same time. I have a 2002 so my switch maybe different than earlier years. I did, however, perform this modification to a friend's 2001 without any problems at all. To do the mod, remove the panel below the steering column. This will expose a bundle of wires coming from the multifunction switch as well as the horn, cruise control, etc. The wires of interest on my 2002 as well as my friend's 2001 are light green and violet with a white stripe. There are two light green wires. Make sure of the one you need before doing the mod. I used a piercing circuit tester light and found the correct light green wire by grounding the tester and piercing each light green wire and watching which wire caused the tester light to go on and off when the light switch was turned on and off. Having located the correct wires, I used a wire tap connector to short these two wires together. The wire tap is designed to allow you to connect a new wire to an existing circuit. In other words, one side of the tap goes all the way through and the other dead ends. Take a knife and cut the dead end plastic out so that both wires can go all the way through. Place both the light green wire and the violet with white stripe wire in the tap and press it home with pliers. Be careful not to short the pliers to ground while doing this. I used a dab of dielectric grease in the tap just to be safe from corrosion later on. What this mod does is simply short across the low beam disconnect contacts of the multifunction switch. This will make the low beam filaments light as long as the light switch is turned on with the multifinction switch in either high or low beam position. I can now see the road better and it cost me $0.11 instead of $95.00. Questions are welcome.
anouther thing you can do is use a relay to turn on your low beam lights on wen the highbeam is on this way you dont run the risk of burning out your dimmer or headlight swirch because it is the relay switching not the dimmer or headlight switch and it only costs about 15$.
First get a relay and some wire
Second hook post 30 on the realy to the positive termnal on the battry
Third hook post 85 of the relay to a good ground
Fourth splice 86 into high beam
Fith splice 87 into low beam
and now your done and it is 100% legel at least in canada anyways (im not responcple if its not leagel where you are)if you want the option to trun this on and off(so your low beam isent always on wen highbeam is on) just hook a switch in the wire going fron 86 to highbeam and run it into your cab. this will help your low beam bulbs last longer. you can do it with a single bulb that has high and low in it too (2 headlights insted of 4) but you half to watch they dont get too hot. hope it helps
shott8283
01-26-2006, 04:19 AM
im for ryans mod....thats the one i did... a little safer then splicing wires together ..
Chopper1
03-13-2006, 11:56 AM
Another item on front lighting...
The same guy that was on you list for the Sport headlights sells the clear driving lights that come on the 99-02 non sport. He refers to them as 94-01 He also sells on E-Bay. There is a link from their web site or look under EBay seller ivm1 or look at Item number: 8045955644. .
I got a set last year from http://stores.ebay.com/MakotoAutoTrends. The price was about the same. They look a lot cleaner, instead of the ridged lenses that came on the earlier models. I have a 97 sport and they look great. Put out more light than the earlier ridged lense models. Mine stay on all the time and my old lenses where starting to crack and get a dull center from age. The new ones came with a different bulb so just use your old one. Been on for a year, no problems.
Just remember these are the ones that came on the 99-02 Non Sport.
maybe we should also mention the brake line failer behind the gas tank.
chriswhite
07-06-2006, 03:30 PM
Hey everybody I don't know how to make a new post or thread so sorry its off subject I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 and i want to dual out the exhaust but a true dual exhaust i need to know how to reprogram the ECU so the O2 sensors will work with the new setup and dimension of piping and still pass emissions if anyone has any thoughts or could help that would be very appreciated thanks a lot
BadStratRT
07-12-2006, 06:59 PM
chris, you may want to ask in the ram section, instead of in here...
also, for those of you looking to do some of your own work, our DIY section has several instructional posts for Rams!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forumid_118/tt.htm
codyc_13
08-14-2006, 04:34 AM
i have an 2001 dodge ram 1500 with the 5.2 litler engine and i have extremely bad low end power i took the motor is completly stock i took it to the track this weekend and it would barley do a burnout in the water box it ran and 18.36 is this normal or is something wrong is there anything i can do to make lowend better
thanks alot, cody
there are a ton of mods you can do to help low end, and upper end... some are cheep, some are not. the cheepest would be to swap the thermostat to a 180 deg, slot the crank position sensor and drop in a K&N filter in place of the stock air filter. Post a performance question down below in the general forum and you'll get plenty of responses...
JarheadX
10-03-2006, 09:34 PM
I got the 5.9 and i ran a 16.9
Racinfan83
10-23-2006, 03:46 AM
Here's a link to a post I did with pics of my tranny cooler install. http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_286895/mpage_1/key_tranny%252Ccooler/tm.htm#286895
Here are also detailed instructions on how I did it.
I would guess you could do it with any cooler, they all have an inlet and an outlet. You want to put the cooler in after the fluid goes through the cooler in the radiator (factory standard), so the idea is to splice it in the return line. I don't know if a Durango has the exact same setup or not - look at the pics and compare. Some factory tranny coolers are mounted in between the rad and condenser, so check that out before you buy one. Here's the instructions for a Ram. Some people sandwich the tranny cooler between the radiator and the condenser - I thought about that but to get enough room to work behind the condenser requires removing it - which requires unhooking the A.C. lines and an A.C recharge. Sorry - I'm not doing that. Attaching the cooler on the outside as I did requires removal of the two top bolts that hold the condenser on in order to get your arm behind it to attach the plastic mounting nuts. No biggie. You need a "quick disconnect tool", $6 at Auto Zone, to unhook the "hard line" at the joint. The return line is the one that attaches to the top of the radiator....see pic. There will be some drainage from the line, so have a pan and rags handy. An 11/16 wrench removes the fitting at the radiator. I used a tubing cutter to cut the line about 1/2 way down, leaving enough of the line to still catch in the holder on the radiator after being bent. Use a tubing bender to bend the ends of the line forward - be careful not to kink it. Mine started to kink even with the bender - so watch carefully as you bend. If it starts to kink, stop, a perfect 90 degree bend isn't necessary. I used a flaring tool to flare the cut ends of the line a little bit - enough to help hold the hose in place better - and filed the edges smooth so the hose would not cut through over time. Blow compressed air through the hard line pieces to clean out any metal filings. Reattach the ends to the radiator and tranny line. I ran the bottom line out through a precut place in the rubber next to the radiator, I cut a hole for the other line. Cut cooler hose to length, attach top to top, bottom to bottom with clamps provided with cooler. Don't overtighten. I left the bottom hose off and had my son start the truck up in neutral to make sure I had good fluid flow before I buttoned it up. Have a clean container to catch the fluid that comes out. You won't have to run it long to get fluid out - so this is best done with two people. You can put the fluid back in the tranny if you use a clean container. I cut two pieces of old radiator hose to use as a buffer between the cooler lines and the A.C. condenser lines and zip tied the lines loosely together. Probably didn't have to - but I didn't want them rubbing. Depending on how much fluid drained from the lines, and how much the cooler holds, you may have to add some tranny fluid, so check the level after installation. That's pretty much it. If you can find the "hard line" at a salvage yard - I would suggest getting one and doing your cutting and bending on it, that way you have an extra. If you screw up the original - you'll be needing another ride to go find one! The tools I used can be rented at Auto Zone if you don't have them. I hope this is clear enough......Good Luck!
mactools124
10-24-2006, 01:20 PM
hey steveo5ram360 were is this sevice manual u talked about for the oil pump?
mike
maybe we should also mention the brake line failer behind the gas tank.
ya happened to me cost $150 at meinike
Socha_62
11-27-2006, 09:43 PM
Another link for Sport Headlight Conversion harness and actual Sport Headlight unit.
http://www.importvision.com/index.php?display=show_part.php&PartMake=Dodge%20Truck&select_PartType=Headlight%20Harnesses
Heres the link to get a build sheet of what options your truck came with. Type build sheet in for the subject.
http://www-5.dodge.com/wccsapp/universal/D/index.jsp?appStr=wccs&titleStr=Contact+Dodge&familyStr=brand&franchise=D&actionURL=%2Fwccs%2Fbrand_forms%2Fus%2Fwebform.jsp&promotion=null&category=R
erikb45
12-01-2006, 12:27 PM
been here
95ram
12-21-2006, 03:20 PM
I just acquired a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD 5.2 5-speed. It starts great, idles a little rough when cold, a little less rough when warm, will quite often stall just off idle when engaging the clutch, and has an intermittant/occasional dead spot out on the road. When cruising, the power will go "flat", like a dead spot, but if you let off on the gas then step back down on it it'll come right out of it. The PO told me that it will sometimes back fire through the exhaust as well. It blew off the back end of the muffler in fact.The fuel gauge always reads toolow and generally "wonky", but the fuel pump was replaced recently along with the plugs, cap, and rotor. The PO said none of this made a difference in how it ran.Otherwise, the truck is very driveable, and has normal power I would say. After reading abouthalf of the total number of posts in "2nd generation", I haven't run across this particular symptom that I recall, butI'll be cleaning the TB and sensors next opportunity since they have so many dirt/carbon issues. The vehicle has 157K, but only about 40K since an engine rebuild.I'm sure I'll find plenty to do. Any suggestions about whythe vehicle runs the way it does? I hope my question belongs here. Thank you for any help.What a great site, glad to be here. Scott
White
12-24-2006, 06:35 AM
Hey guys I'm new to the whole forum but I have a question. I'm replacing my track bar and steering damper my troubles is with the steering damper. I can get the passenger side off but not the driver side. It's not just a nut and bolt it goes throught the tie rod bar and then theres a bolt which i can get off but how do you get the damper off. Because at the other end it is just flat and no nut or bolt. I hope I made sence but I just need help please. Thanks.
D_ram22
01-19-2007, 03:13 PM
Requesting amplifcation on the Following: surging in overdrive at hiway speeds: (Racinfan83)
tps is noisy and needs to be replaced. the signal a noisy tps sends back to the pcm tells it that the throttle is open farther than it really is and the pcm unlocks the torque converter. the surging is about 200 rpms as the TC locks and un-locks. Is TPS Noise a Rattle like? I have this problem on my 01 4x4 5.2. No one has ever been able to tell me what the nproblem is.
Thanks for this info. It has been bothering me for some time.
steve05ram360
01-19-2007, 04:53 PM
the surging problem is most likely the TPS being noisey as you mentioned... the rattle however could be a leaky plenum gasket. with your truck being so new, that might not be the case. leaky plenums are generally showing up in the older trucks. the newer ones have an updated gasket (still can leak) which holds up much better.
welcome to df...
JOES99RAM
02-04-2007, 06:14 AM
I noticed a link to a Co. in the first post for a plenum gasket conversion, here is another company for the new gasket and pan.
I have not delt with them but I know many Ram/Dak owners who have and they have nothing but good things to say, they also cary modified barrel intakes (shorter runners) and a number of other parts for the magnum engines
fireangel805
05-18-2007, 03:26 PM
can the catalytic converter be cut out ? its welded on.dont havve the $$ right now to buy a new one.i need help my trucks been down for about 3 weeks now.can i unclogged or repaired it?
donparadowski
06-12-2007, 01:51 PM
My ignition cuts out during a lay over. I have a '98 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.2, auto, TWD. Everything runs perfect and then with now warning I come out to start in the morning or two hours later or whatever and no spark. I have had it to a dealer and two shops that really know their stuff and they specialize in electronics on vehicles. They can't find it. No error code is provided by the on board computer, nothing. Then with no warning the vehicle starts right up the next time the key is turned. Once it took a week to start again once a couple of hours. I REALLY COULD USE SOME KNOWLEDGABLE ADVICE. THANKS.
steve05ram360
06-12-2007, 02:39 PM
crank sensor or coil could be causing the problem. my bet is on the crank sensor. whatever it is, it is heat related. you can try to get a can of freeze spray and spray the crank sensor when it wont fire, might be tough because of it's location but it's worth a shot.
jason18272
07-01-2007, 08:13 AM
i got a question, when i get deep into the pettle or start pulling a hill, my ac will stop blowing out of ts set vent and go into what i gess is defrost mode. what is the deal with that. the truck is a 98 quad cab 4x4 360
steve05ram360
07-01-2007, 08:44 AM
welcome to df...
there is a check valve on an vacuum line going thru the firewall that is bad. follow the vacuum lines off the intake manifold to the firewall and you'll find it.
bluemax68g
07-01-2007, 07:19 PM
Hey Guys I have a 99 Ram 1500 small v8 auto regular cab. The Check engine light came on . My brother checked it with a reader & it's the speed sensor circuit malfunction. I have the part .does anyone have any pics of the connection so I can see where to push the flathead screwdriver in to get the electrical connection off ?
StreetRiot_DRE
07-06-2007, 09:33 PM
ok let me start off by saying that im am new to trucks...i am a Honda guy...which i kno u guys r probably gonna bash on me for it but its the truth....dont worry im not a ricer , into body kits and giant wings and stuff ;), im into JDM....anyways i just want to know what kind of tranny is in anauto97 Ram 1500 5.9 Mag.???? i was offered i free truck from my dad if i put up the $$ to fix the suspension damage after a front accident (nothing major, i hope, good excuse to go with heavy duty off roading suspension [8D]) and i have to replace the tranny.....but i have not had any luck with finding usefull info, so i figured i would find a forum, not im here[/align][/align]all since i am into Hondas and motor swaps and conversions and such i am curious.....will a newer RAM hemi fit in my 97?? and would it be worth the swap??....also has any1 thought of converting the front end on an older ram to a newer ram??....ok ok let me stop im getting in over my head but please some help!!!![/align][/align]thank you very much for your time and help[/align]DRE[/align]
arcsum68
09-26-2007, 03:48 PM
Holy crap, just tested my cat with a temp gun, 700 degrees in and400 degrees out, time to get a new cat.
Thanks for the information!
kowboydmac
11-07-2007, 11:54 PM
How universal are the wiper switches for Dodge Rams? I have a 1996 Ram Extended cab 5.9L. Most Chrysler switches I've seen for Jeeps and Vans/Trucks from the mid 90's all look the same.
ICEMAN_CH
11-08-2007, 10:17 AM
ORIGINAL: arcsum68
Holy crap, just tested my cat with a temp gun, 700 degrees in and400 degrees out, time to get a new cat.
Thanks for the information!
That is the way it's supposed to be.
arcsum68
11-08-2007, 10:26 AM
ORIGINAL: ICEMAN_CH
ORIGINAL: arcsum68
Holy crap, just tested my cat with a temp gun, 700 degrees in and400 degrees out, time to get a new cat.
Thanks for the information!
That is the way it's supposed to be.
Page 1 ofthis thread:
Catalytic Converter:
The best way to test the cat is to have someone in the cab rev the motor to about 2000 or 2500 rpm's and put a temp gun on the input and output of the cat. the output should be around 50 deg hotter than the input for proper cat operation. if the temps are the same, the cat is not working, if the input temp is high and the output temp is low, you have a plugged cat and you should have it swapped out immediately.
I was 300 degrees hotter coming in than going out, it was definitely plugged up.
steve05ram360
11-09-2007, 04:32 AM
ORIGINAL: ICEMAN_CH
ORIGINAL: arcsum68
Holy crap, just tested my cat with a temp gun, 700 degrees in and400 degrees out, time to get a new cat.
Thanks for the information!
That is the way it's supposed to be.
uhhh.. no... hotter coming out than going in. you have it backwards, his cat is definately plugged.
ICEMAN_CH
11-09-2007, 10:14 AM
oh I seee. sorry,
tothewall
12-06-2007, 12:12 PM
ORIGINAL: bamory
Found this while surfing the net, tried it and it works great, makes all four bulbs burn at once for an extremely bright drive at nite
Possibly a new solution to an old problem.<br><br>I wanted to have my low beam lights to stay on when switching to high beams. I was poised with pen in hand getting ready to write a check for a Brite Box. Then I remembered that I was an electrical engineer and should be able to do this myself.