Dodge Ram FAQ

steve05ram360 · #1 11-28-2005, 02:14 PM

2nd Gen Service Manual Download - AKA merry christmas thread.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_340929/tm.htm

OK, here we go... reply to this thread and I'll add to it the performance mods, and repairs that are common and un-common...

Check this out... picture resizing tool found here... www.irfanview.com use this all the time and it works great!

Catalytic Converter:
The best way to test the cat is to have someone in the cab rev the motor to about 2000 or 2500 rpm's and put a temp gun on the input and output of the cat. the output should be around 50 deg hotter than the input for proper cat operation. if the temps are the same, the cat is not working, if the input temp is high and the output temp is low, you have a plugged cat and you should have it swapped out immediately.

Throttle Body:
1st things to check are a dirty throttle body, the IAC can get gunked up and not work right when cold (or even hot), The IAC is on the back of the TB near the firewall. pull the TB and give it a thorough cleaning.

Blown Plenum:
Look down into the intake manifold and look for oil pooling on the bottom of the intake, get a mirror and flashlight and look at all of the corners. any oil means your plenum is leaking and it needs to be fixed (APSPrecision.com for the kit). Get a new TB gasket when you put it back on and torque it down to spec.

TracBar:
When lifting a Ram 4x4, excessive tracbar wear will occur, there are several options out there...
http://www.dtprofab.com/dodge.htm
http://www.thurenfabrication.com/stocktb.html
http://www.solidsteel.ca/news.htm

Auto Transmission:
For a bullet proof auto tranny...
http://www.apsprecision.com/

Surging at hiway speeds:
Throttle Position sensor noisy, this will cause the PCM to unlock and lock the torque converter which is seen as a surge. I think the TC gets locked as early as 3rd gear but not 100% sure.

another surging fix... http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_538721/tm.htm

Evap codes 442 & 445:
1) fix was split vacuum line at the top of the gas tank.
2) new gas cap.

Heads:
the stock heads are prone to cracking between the valves. this can be a cause for a miss that cannot be found. The R/T heads are the prefered replacement.

o2 sensors:
the prefered o2 sensor is the NGK ones... they seem to outlast some of the others out there.

Steering box leak: (2001ramsport)
have a look at this link http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/steeringbox.php

Steering box problem: (bamory)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/fb.asp?m=334697

Noisy rear springs: (shott8283)
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/02-04-00.htm

surging in overdrive at hiway speeds: (Racinfan83)
tps is noisy and needs to be replaced. the signal a noisy tps sends back to the pcm tells it that the throttle is open farther than it really is and the pcm unlocks the torque converter. the surging is about 200 rpms as the TC locks and un-locks.

I had the plugged cat problem and the heat took out my exhaust seat on the #8 cylinder which is right next to the cat...

Sport Headlight upgrade sources... this is the group buy (closed by now) where I got my sport headlight conversion.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/...&old=78064

Fuel pump swap: there is a DIY writeup in the DIY forum.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_402587/tm.htm

Wheel backspacing info...
http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html#wheeltrm

coil spring table...
http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/springs.htm

Foglights Stay On With Brights Mod....
This eliminates the relay that makes your foglights go off when you click on the high beams....(which is when you REALLY need that low close-up light)

I used a piece of normal size automotive wire about 1 1/2 inches long, stripped both ends and crimped on electrical spade lugs. You then find the "fog light relay" in the power distribution center (the black box behind your battery) and pull it out. There is a map of all the relays on the inside of the PDC lid. The fog light relay has 5 spades 3 that run sideways to the truck, and 2 that run parallel to the length of the truck. On mine these two were the closest to me. All you do is plug one spade on the jumper into one of the parallel terminals and the other end of the jumper to the other parallel terminal. They will end up plugged in next to each other. Picture and diagram is in the above link. Throw the relay in the glove compartment in case you ever need it.

http://www.dodgeforum.com/upfiles/19...2396FFA809.jpg

Tranny Cooler Mod (courtesy of RacinFan83)
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_286895/m.../tm.htm#286895
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_616344/tm.htm (DIY writeup)

46re manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/228727/Dod...Service-Manual

2nd Gen Bolt/Nut Thread
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_559020/tm.htm

ANNOUNCEMENT:cracked dashes and the nhtsa. please sign up.
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_351576/tm.htm

Saftey Recall on Cold air intakes from K&N !!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_462374/tm.htm

RH Tranny service manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/228727/A500-42RH-A518-46RH-A618-47RH-Service-Manual

Chrylser admits Catalytic converters bad 1996-2001
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_352822/tm.htm

Miles per gallon- What are you getting?
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_181077/tm.htm

alittle tip for everyone!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_527393/tm.htm

tips & tricks for the rams
http://www.v8performance.com/tipsandtricks.htm

bamory · #2 11-28-2005, 10:54 PM

MY STEERING SOLUTION THAT WORKED FOR ME

I would try the track bar first, then draglink that is attached to the pitman arm, have someone move steering wheel slowly while your under front end see if joints move and wheels dont, go slow looking at every ball joint and both ends of the trackbar.

After I replaced everything that was worn I adjusted my steering box, got a total of six turns out of it, using a wrench the fits the nut on the top of gearbox and an allen that fits the adjustment screw in the center of the nut loosen the nut but keep allen immobile, loosen nut so you can get a few good turns out of the allen screw, when nut is loose then turn the allen wrench clockwise to tighten the allen head down, snug it then back off a half of turn. then holding the allen immobile, tighten the nut back down, whole trick is to only let one thing move at once. hope this helps

The Burning Rom · #3 11-29-2005, 05:51 AM

I posted all the 2nd diesel HP ratings in that thread where I posted the Gas motor ratings.

Also, add this website for bulletproof transmissions: http://www.dieseltrans.com/ For the diesel/V10 owners.

ljpierce_ely · #4 11-29-2005, 12:37 PM

Hey Steve. Don't forget the Cylinder Head problem on the Magnum 360's!!! If you think that's worthy of mention.

steve05ram360 · #5 11-29-2005, 01:27 PM

Yes, absolutely the heads are a problem. what I think I'm gonna do is take all of the posts and compile the data at the top so readers dont have to go thru all of the posts that follow...

bamory · #6 12-06-2005, 11:30 AM

I used this from Pavement Sucks and a good one by Steve on my waterpump and timing chain---very detailed---pay attention when they tell you which hoses to replace, I didnt replace my bypass and it leaked, had to tear partially down again.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/timingchain.php

http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_224411/m.../tm.htm#224411

shott8283 · #7 12-06-2005, 02:49 PM

oh how bout this one... i just helped a dude out the other day ,,,
02-04-00 94-01 Squeaking/Clicking Noise From Rear Leaf Springs

and go here for the fix and symptom cause
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/02-04-00.htm

steve05ram360 · #8 12-08-2005, 01:35 PM

once we get several up here, I'll update the top post. keep them coming...!

bamory · #9 12-15-2005, 12:29 PM

Found this while surfing the net, tried it and it works great, makes all four bulbs burn at once for an extremely bright drive at nite

Possibly a new solution to an old problem.<br><br>I wanted to have my low beam lights to stay on when switching to high beams. I was poised with pen in hand getting ready to write a check for a Brite Box. Then I remembered that I was an electrical engineer and should be able to do this myself. I located the schematic for the lighting circuit in the manual and found out how it works. A simple procedure will eliminate the need for the Brite Box. There are those who will say that the light switch can't handle the current of both filaments being on at the same time. I have a 2002 so my switch maybe different than earlier years. I did, however, perform this modification to a friend's 2001 without any problems at all. To do the mod, remove the panel below the steering column. This will expose a bundle of wires coming from the multifunction switch as well as the horn, cruise control, etc. The wires of interest on my 2002 as well as my friend's 2001 are light green and violet with a white stripe. There are two light green wires. Make sure of the one you need before doing the mod. I used a piercing circuit tester light and found the correct light green wire by grounding the tester and piercing each light green wire and watching which wire caused the tester light to go on and off when the light switch was turned on and off. Having located the correct wires, I used a wire tap connector to short these two wires together. The wire tap is designed to allow you to connect a new wire to an existing circuit. In other words, one side of the tap goes all the way through and the other dead ends. Take a knife and cut the dead end plastic out so that both wires can go all the way through. Place both the light green wire and the violet with white stripe wire in the tap and press it home with pliers. Be careful not to short the pliers to ground while doing this. I used a dab of dielectric grease in the tap just to be safe from corrosion later on. What this mod does is simply short across the low beam disconnect contacts of the multifunction switch. This will make the low beam filaments light as long as the light switch is turned on with the multifinction switch in either high or low beam position. I can now see the road better and it cost me $0.11 instead of $95.00. Questions are welcome.

Racinfan83 · #10 12-18-2005, 04:34 AM

Good Tip!