RE: Dodge Ram FAQ
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 7/6/2006 12:30:40 PM
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chriswhite
Posts: 4
Joined: 7/6/2006
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Hey everybody I don't know how to make a new post or thread so sorry its off subject I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 and i want to dual out the exhaust but a true dual exhaust i need to know how to reprogram the ECU so the O2 sensors will work with the new setup and dimension of piping and still pass emissions if anyone has any thoughts or could help that would be very appreciated thanks a lot
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 7/12/2006 3:59:32 PM
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BadStratRT
Posts: 20755
Joined: 3/19/2004
Status: offline
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chris, you may want to ask in the ram section, instead of in here...
also, for those of you looking to do some of your own work, our DIY section has several instructional posts for Rams!
http://www.dodgeforum.com/forumid_118/tt.htm
_____________________________
A True Dodge Enthusiast with a vehicle history to prove it.
Rules Number 3 and 7.
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 8/14/2006 11:53:30 AM
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steve05ram360
Posts: 11346
Joined: 1/22/2004
From: Elk Grove, CA
Status: offline
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Hey Cody, Welcome to DF!
there are a ton of mods you can do to help low end, and upper end... some are cheep, some are not. the cheepest would be to swap the thermostat to a 180 deg, slot the crank position sensor and drop in a K&N filter in place of the stock air filter. Post a performance question down below in the general forum and you'll get plenty of responses...
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 10/3/2006 6:34:15 PM
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JarheadX
Posts: 906
Joined: 3/9/2006
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I got the 5.9 and i ran a 16.9
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0311
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 10/23/2006 12:46:17 AM
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Racinfan83
Posts: 877
Joined: 8/6/2005
From: West Of St Louis, MO
Status: offline
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Here's a link to a post I did with pics of my tranny cooler install. http://www.dodgeforum.com/m_286895/mpage_1/key_tranny%252Ccooler/tm.htm#286895
Here are also detailed instructions on how I did it.
I would guess you could do it with any cooler, they all have an inlet and an outlet. You want to put the cooler in after the fluid goes through the cooler in the radiator (factory standard), so the idea is to splice it in the return line. I don't know if a Durango has the exact same setup or not - look at the pics and compare. Some factory tranny coolers are mounted in between the rad and condenser, so check that out before you buy one. Here's the instructions for a Ram. Some people sandwich the tranny cooler between the radiator and the condenser - I thought about that but to get enough room to work behind the condenser requires removing it - which requires unhooking the A.C. lines and an A.C recharge. Sorry - I'm not doing that. Attaching the cooler on the outside as I did requires removal of the two top bolts that hold the condenser on in order to get your arm behind it to attach the plastic mounting nuts. No biggie. You need a "quick disconnect tool", $6 at Auto Zone, to unhook the "hard line" at the joint. The return line is the one that attaches to the top of the radiator....see pic. There will be some drainage from the line, so have a pan and rags handy. An 11/16 wrench removes the fitting at the radiator. I used a tubing cutter to cut the line about 1/2 way down, leaving enough of the line to still catch in the holder on the radiator after being bent. Use a tubing bender to bend the ends of the line forward - be careful not to kink it. Mine started to kink even with the bender - so watch carefully as you bend. If it starts to kink, stop, a perfect 90 degree bend isn't necessary. I used a flaring tool to flare the cut ends of the line a little bit - enough to help hold the hose in place better - and filed the edges smooth so the hose would not cut through over time. Blow compressed air through the hard line pieces to clean out any metal filings. Reattach the ends to the radiator and tranny line. I ran the bottom line out through a precut place in the rubber next to the radiator, I cut a hole for the other line. Cut cooler hose to length, attach top to top, bottom to bottom with clamps provided with cooler. Don't overtighten. I left the bottom hose off and had my son start the truck up in neutral to make sure I had good fluid flow before I buttoned it up. Have a clean container to catch the fluid that comes out. You won't have to run it long to get fluid out - so this is best done with two people. You can put the fluid back in the tranny if you use a clean container. I cut two pieces of old radiator hose to use as a buffer between the cooler lines and the A.C. condenser lines and zip tied the lines loosely together. Probably didn't have to - but I didn't want them rubbing. Depending on how much fluid drained from the lines, and how much the cooler holds, you may have to add some tranny fluid, so check the level after installation. That's pretty much it. If you can find the "hard line" at a salvage yard - I would suggest getting one and doing your cutting and bending on it, that way you have an extra. If you screw up the original - you'll be needing another ride to go find one! The tools I used can be rented at Auto Zone if you don't have them. I hope this is clear enough......Good Luck!
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2001 Ram 1500 QC 4x4 5.2 auto, 3.55
Ram Page
K&N, Flowmaster 40
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MSD Wires
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 10/24/2006 10:20:46 AM
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mactools124
Posts: 17
Joined: 10/20/2006
Status: offline
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hey steveo5ram360 were is this sevice manual u talked about for the oil pump?
mike
1997 ram 1500 4x4
flowmaster 40 series dual exit
5.9L v8
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 11/20/2006 11:02:50 PM
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nim81
Posts: 159
Joined: 11/16/2006
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Tani1500
maybe we should also mention the brake line failer behind the gas tank.
ya happened to me cost $150 at meinike
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'99 durango 5.2L
k$n, accel
2200 watt 12" subs, kenwood h/u, mtx componet sys.
285/70 firestone a/t on 17'' american racing rims
tons of other crap that cost to much money
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 12/1/2006 9:27:54 AM
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erikb45
Posts: 288
Joined: 11/28/2006
Status: offline
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been here
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 12/21/2006 12:20:44 PM
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95ram
Posts: 40
Joined: 12/8/2006
From: Central Maine
Status: offline
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I just acquired a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD 5.2 5-speed. It starts great, idles a little rough when cold, a little less rough when warm, will quite often stall just off idle when engaging the clutch, and has an intermittant/occasional dead spot out on the road. When cruising, the power will go "flat", like a dead spot, but if you let off on the gas then step back down on it it'll come right out of it. The PO told me that it will sometimes back fire through the exhaust as well. It blew off the back end of the muffler in fact. The fuel gauge always reads too low and generally "wonky", but the fuel pump was replaced recently along with the plugs, cap, and rotor. The PO said none of this made a difference in how it ran. Otherwise, the truck is very driveable, and has normal power I would say. After reading about half of the total number of posts in "2nd generation", I haven't run across this particular symptom that I recall, but I'll be cleaning the TB and sensors next opportunity since they have so many dirt/carbon issues. The vehicle has 157K, but only about 40K since an engine rebuild. I'm sure I'll find plenty to do. Any suggestions about why the vehicle runs the way it does? I hope my question belongs here. Thank you for any help. What a great site, glad to be here. Scott
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RE: Dodge Ram FAQ - 12/24/2006 3:35:53 AM
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White
Posts: 1
Joined: 12/24/2006
Status: offline
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Hey guys I'm new to the whole forum but I have a question. I'm replacing my track bar and steering damper my troubles is with the steering damper. I can get the passenger side off but not the driver side. It's not just a nut and bolt it goes throught the tie rod bar and then theres a bolt which i can get off but how do you get the damper off. Because at the other end it is just flat and no nut or bolt. I hope I made sence but I just need help please. Thanks.
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