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expert requested

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expert requested - 9/5/2005 7:05:24 PM   
wordslayer

 

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Tomorrow, I am having the mechanic hear in town to install a set of goldline springs. I ordered the camber kit for the rear. The camber kit did not come in. I have heard from two different people that the springs do not need a camber kit. I haven't talked to the mechanic yet, but is this something that needs to be put on the car? I know very little, mechanically, about cars. I do know enough to ask those who do know, though.
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RE: expert requested - 9/5/2005 8:17:33 PM   
LilSparkPlug



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2" or more its a neccesity, higher than that its not that neccessary but these cars are notorious for their asses being out of line. So id go for it anyway.

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RE: expert requested - 9/5/2005 8:33:53 PM   
wordslayer

 

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Hmmm,,,these springs have a 1.5 drop on both the front and the back. Sooooooo,,,then it is okay to do it without the camber kit, huh? Thanks! I was really starting to stress it. I didn't want to blow a strut or anything.

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RE: expert requested - 9/5/2005 8:58:57 PM   
LilSparkPlug



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Well its inevitable over time that the extra stress on the stock struts, meant to ride at stock height may/can/will blow on you. Its all a matter of mileage and driving conditions, as well as how YOU drive the vehicle. They have alot more play in them and the stock struts aren't used to this.

A camber kit will not prevent that. Negative camber is when the top of your tire is leaning in towards the vehicle. Positive camber is when its leaning outwards away from the vehicle. Some negative camber is good. However too much and you risk uneven tire wear, if the negative camber is severe (not in your case) axle, ball joint, and rod damage. The possibilities are endless. At a 1.5mm drop you really DONT need a camber kit. As I stated before the rear of these cars has a severe tendency to knock itself out of alignment. In your case it wouldnt be too bad of an idea to put the camber kit in, get reinforced, larger sway bars, and consider some better struts in the future.

For now, your okay. Make sure you get an alignment immeadiately after putting the springs in. That will tell you how bad the camber is. If the technician feels you still need the kit, have it put on the next day or a couple of days later. Having a camber kit never hurts.

Hope that helped ya,
C

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RE: expert requested - 9/5/2005 10:48:52 PM   
wordslayer

 

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Yes,,,it did help! I learned a LOT just from that information. I'm guessing that I should change out the struts then, at a little later date. I may do it when I put new wheels on, but that will be a few months still. Neat to know about the negative and positive camber work. I will drop you a line after they put the springs on telling me what they said and how it looks. Again, THANKS!!!

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RE: expert requested - 9/6/2005 10:01:33 PM   
wordslayer

 

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Lil Spark:

Okay,,,,got my goldlines put on today and the car looks awesome! The camber kit was inside the box. The mechanic told me that my struts shouldn't be affected by the new springs. I hope he is right. Anyhow, I am very pleased with the look and how it drives. However, the only negative I could find is, when going over a significant bump, you occasionally hear a knock in the back. It's not bad or anything, but it is there. On the positive side, the ride is very close to how the original was.

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RE: expert requested - 9/6/2005 10:27:15 PM   
Hi N Mity

 

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pics ? what did it cost for the install? cost for the springs?

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RE: expert requested - 9/6/2005 11:35:24 PM   
wordslayer

 

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I will dig out my digital camera and try to post a pic on the weekend. The springs were only 163 dollars, but the cambers were like 22 dollars. The total amount for parts, including tax and shipping, since there wasn't any, was like 185 dollars. The install, however, is what got me. Once I paid to have them installed PLUS the alignment, it was 200 dollars. Total amount was 385.

I swear,,,,I hate the way these things look out of the factor, as far as how high they sit up. It looks a hundred times better dropped down like this.

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RE: expert requested - 9/6/2005 11:53:39 PM   
LilSparkPlug



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I believe that noise your hearing has something to do with the bumpstop. Sometimes during an install if its removed it can make that noise and cause a harder "hit" while going over bumps. The SRT im driving right now has the springs that Ill be putting in my car, the Eibach Pro-Kit 1.5 front 1.8 rear for drop specs. His struts are blown completely. The car has never had an alignment, nor has it had any type of camber correction whatsoever.

Needless to say going over bumps isnt fun. The entire rear end sways back and forth to the point that you need to hold the wheel tight to keep the car in line of the direction your going. You get a HARD knock and alot of banging going on in the back end. This is a worst case scenario for lowering a car. But much props for doing it the right way. Even if it cost a hefty sum.

With new struts, especially if their of the adjustable kind, you'll find that it will ride much better than with the stock struts. But again, thats all in due time.

Im glad your pleased with how everything turned out. And as stated before be sure to take some pix of the little guy lowered. Especially since its white.

And that knock im almost positive is the bump stop.

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RE: expert requested - 9/19/2005 1:11:06 AM   
Pressurecooker

 

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I've been thinking about putting lowering springs on mine as well. I do think it sits a little too high stock. But, alas, this IS Michigan, and we don't call those airdams snowplows for nothing. Would like to see pics though.

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RE: expert requested - 9/21/2005 9:35:56 PM   
LowSlowNeon


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I know where you're coming from....however I lowered mine and I have only got stuck one time in someones driveway because I got the center of my on top of snow. I don't even know how I did that, so my wheels weren't really touching the ground. I have plowed through snow up to about my headlights. But trust me...it didn't really like doing that. But that was a hella lot of snow. It did just fine with the stock tires even...I realize you have much more power at the wheels, but I think with real good all season tires or snow tires you'd be fine. This year round I'm hoping to get some dedicated snow tires now that I have summer tires. Here's the ride after some hard work...lol.






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< Message edited by LowSlowNeon -- 9/21/2005 9:36:28 PM >


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RE: expert requested - 3/26/2007 8:12:22 PM   
harrymue


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I'm curious to know about the treadware rating on everones' tires. I don't see anyone mention the tire treadware (TW) rating for the tires your using on SRT-4's. The lower the TW the softer the tire. The SCCA recommends 140 which is a soft tire. We ran at Hallett this past Saturday with Bridgestone Potenza 215/45ZR17 (TW 160) on the front and Michelin Hx MXM4 215/45R17 (TW 300) on the rear. The car handled very well. This is only the second time this car has been on the track since my son bought it a month ago and other than slotted and drilled rotors, straight exhaust that exits just in front of the drivers side rear tire and the tires, it is a stock 2003 SRT-4.

http://www.hallettracing.net/

Harry

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