My front passenger speaker stopped working, and I wanted to remove the door panel to check it out, before wasting any money on taking it to a shop. Any howto's or faq's on how to do this?
steps
1 disconect the negative cable from battery
2 open door completly and lower glass
3 on manual window models, remove the window crank retaining clip by working a cloth back and forth behind the handle to dislodge the retainer clip
4 remove the screws and the pull cup
5 remove the screw holding the trim panel to the door(under the door opening latch)
6 disengage the push in fasteners around the perimiter of the door panel. tilt the panel outward to locate the fasteners.
7 grasp the trim panel and pull up sharply to detach it from the retainer channel in the inner belt weatherstrip on the top of the door
8 move the trim panle away from the door and disengage the clip holding the latch linkage from the backside of the door
9 do not allow trim panel to hang from eletrical wiers on models so equipped, disconnect the electrical connectors from the power door lock switch the mirror switch and the power window switch and remove the trim panel
to remove the window crank you can either go to a store and buy a specialty tool or get a facecloth slip it behind the window crank and rotate the facecloth around the crank, eventually it will catch the little clip and pop the clip off. it does work, i have done it many times and it just takes practice to get it.
Wow you had that problem too??? My speaker on the passenger side door is messed up. When I turn the radio on it makes a loud anooying sound then will sound scratchy. I think a wire is loose but I'm not sure.
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1998 Neon R/T DOHC MTX:
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Hey, I got a new, aftermarket, radio about a month ago. Now all the sudden The sound gets scratchy and the speakers cut off for 2-10 seconds. But the radio is still on. My driver door speaker doesn't work at all.
Should I just get all new speakers? They Would sound better.
Any suggestions on speakers, not too crazy priced
sigh... -_- I already did this in GREAT DETAIL 2 TIMES ALREADY...here, I'll quote myself...
Quote:
ORIGINAL: ClearD
o gosh, i forgot about that in my other post on removing door panels...I've done this probably 20 times before. OK, first off, read this:
Quote:
ORIGINAL: ClearD
ok, to get the door off, there are 2 screws. One of them is behind the handle (pull the handle inside to unscrew it), and it should be a phillips-head screw. The other is in the little crevace in the panel and it is a torque-type screw (hex?). After you get those out, take a flat-head screwdriver and wrap it in some cloth or something so you don't scratch the paint around the panel and slowly start prying it apart. Be careful, though, because once it comes off, you need to hold it so you don't break the rod holding the lock on the inside (you'll see it when the door comes off, because it's still attached). Un-attach this rod and lift the door out of the window slit that it's sitting in, and you have successfully removed your door panel. After that, I'd inspect everything inside for anything that looks loose, broken, or generally out of place...
Hope that helped!
Now, I forgot to add the window crank to that post, so here it is. There is a horseshoe-shaped pin that holds it in place, and if you push the door panel in really hard close to it and use a small flashlight, you might be able to see which way it goes. Basically, you need to get a tool that takes that off (yes, they make one), or get a small screwdriver and pry that pin off. If you go the screwdriver route, use two screwdrivers and take one of them and pry it between the door panel and the window crank to keep them seperated while you work the pin with the other one. BE CAREFUL, THOUGH! When that pin comes off, it's on like a spring. IT WILL FLY OFF! I can't even count how many pins I've lost because they went sailing into space. Luckily, you can buy pins at auto zone, napa, or probably anywhere...probably even wal mart...but, anyways, after you get that off and the other screws mentioned above, follow the ablove instructions, and it should work.
Good luck and hope this helps!
You admins should put that post with the guage cluster repair section =/
And on the speakers, go with Pioneers =D 6 1/2" or 6 3/4". 3-Ways are good so go check those out. Should run between $40-$80. Hope this helps again!
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~98 SOHC Automatic~
-GTP Vader front bumper, Custom exhaust, Pioneer/Lightning Audio system, 6.4" Rockford Fosgate monitor, PS1 in glovebox, Custom paint job, Clear headlights, Gen3 Euro tails, Streetglow underbody lights, Enkei Rims w/ Kumho Tires
Front Door Panel removal on '98?
