95 dies after warm
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95 dies after warm - 5/16/2008 6:22:06 AM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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ok i have a 95 neon that after about 3 miles will loe power and die. wait 5 minutes and it will start and run for a mile and die again. so heres what ive doe so far new fuel filter,fuel pump,crankshaft position sensor and now what. my mechanic said no codes came up so im lost. auto zone said pcm next. any opinions fellas. one more thing, once in a while when its wet outside it wont start. so being the rocket sceintist that i am, could there be something cracked that is letting moisture and heat in???? thanks again single overhead cam too
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/16/2008 9:39:28 AM
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Ghost Neon 2
Posts: 494
Joined: 12/21/2006
Status: offline
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Any work/repairs in the past 3 months?
_____________________________
Angels on the side lines. Baffled and confused. Father blessed them all with reason, cause this is what they choose.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/16/2008 11:26:22 AM
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12 volt
Posts: 1344
Joined: 8/4/2007
From: roswell New Mexico
Status: offline
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quote:
could there be something cracked that is letting moisture and heat in
ignition coil
_____________________________
98 neon Sport mtx/DOHC audio system, toggle switch ignition, K&N insert
95 neon (parts car)
91 BMW E34
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/16/2008 6:04:24 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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Just went through something similar. Except my computer was puking up code after code. Id replace whatever the computer called for and it would pull the same crap. It would drive for around the same ammount of time every time then it would die. Sit for around 5 minutes and it would start and drive for a little while. Then it would die again. Repeat. Sooooo, after giving up on it myself, I let the local yocal auto shop have a go at it. You would never guess how f**king stupid it was. The PCM connection had come loose. Thats it. Somehow, at some point, that little joker popped itself loose and started to short out after it heated up and the resistance went up. "Click" Problem solved. Thatll be $100.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/19/2008 7:49:49 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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The PCM is located under the hood. Open your hood and look right next to your battery you will see an aluminum box located on the top of your fender well. The connections are located on the top of the box. Im pretty sure its in the same spot as the 96 and newer Neons.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/24/2008 12:43:37 PM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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how can your pcm harness come lose?? it has a bolt on it doesnt it
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/24/2008 12:47:03 PM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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ok i changed the ignition module, no difference. i next changed the pcm ( box on driver side fender) still dies what next besides a gallon of gas and a match!
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/24/2008 1:56:45 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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My 96 doesnt. Just those plastic built in clips.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/24/2008 2:26:30 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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Well, no codes...car stalls.....wait for a few minutes..... repeat. If you changed the fuel pump and filter, you should be getting gas. If you changed the ignition module/coil, you should have spark. New pcm, so it should code if something is registering wrong with a sensor or whatnot. If a car has gas and spark in the right time, it should run. Some of the older Neons have rust issues in the fuel rails that can collect on the backs of the injectors, but if that was the case I wouldnt think that it would run at all. When you say loose power, do you mean that the car starts to miss and then stalls? Like its running out of gas? Or does it just gradually start running slower and slower untill it stalls? Like at timing issue? Man, there are only a few things that should make it stall like that.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/25/2008 6:12:57 AM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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I just lose all power no knocking or bogging down. Almost like you shut the key off . then as its almost stopped it dies. Wait a couple minutes and it will run for a mile or so. Heat is what I think is the problem. Could the cat. converter be plugged or the egr have something to do with it also.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/25/2008 8:02:49 AM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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If the cat was plugged, the car would run really ratty all the time and would hiss really loud when you pushed on the gas. The egr might make it stall, but it wouldnt keep it from running, I dont think. Check your coolant temperature sensor or air intake temperature sensor, and also inspect your grounds. Especially your battery ground. Those can make a car hard to start when its hot. A combination of stalling caused by bad plugs or wires or vacuum leak combined with the temp sensors or bad grounds might do whats happening to your car. Also check your air filter just for shits and giggles. Its strange though that these problems arent throwing up any codes. Its an enigma for sure.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/27/2008 4:25:53 PM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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ok here we go..... grounds ok,air filter good. I took the cat loose at flange and let it run for 2-3 minutes and took off. Only made it a mile and she died. Then it wouldnt start,even after I pulled it back home. Usually after 4-5 minutes it starts and runs for a mile or so. A friend of friend of a friend said sounds like map sensor. so I thought I pulled the wire loose and tried starting it and it worked and I got check engine light too. Well heres the skinny went to autozone asked for a 73 dollar map sensor and it was nothing like what I pulled the electric loose from yesterday. He said mapp sensor was on intake near pcv valve. So what the hell did I pull loose on the passenger side fender well 1 1/2 diameter with 2 black 1/4 size hoses (vac I think),and an electricial connection. I cant find anything online to tell me what iI unplugged to make the car start.
The guy told me the mapp sensor would not make check engine light come on and that his reason for the mapp is that its saying to lean out the fuel which would kill my engine and that after it cooled, would let car start and run until it reached a certain temp and began to act funny making it run lean and not send fuel to injectors. Does this make sense to anybody.
So heres the real question, do I install the mapp sensor or do I find out what I pulled loose and change that. Reason being autozone said once I instal mapp I couldnt return. Whats the vertict now fellas. thanks again
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/27/2008 6:32:07 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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That black thing on the left of your engine that is on your motor mount is the cannister purge control solenoid. The map sensor is located on the intake manifold, right behind the radiator. If your car is a 95, it will have the map sensor on the left side of the manifold, and an air temp sensor just to the right of it. The MAP will be near the top radiator hose. While I dont think that the purge contol solenoid would go bad, the hoses to the charcoal cannister can go bad and that can cause stalling, but the MAP sensor or the air temp sensor are also culprits. The MAP sensor will throw a code. Either a 13 or 14. A code 23 for the air temp sensor. Code 31 for the canister purge solenoid. Do you know how to "talk" to your neons computer without the decoder from Autozone? Turn the key on and off three times quickly leaving it in the on position on the last turn. The check engine light will flash in sequence two digit codes. Each two digit code has a description.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/29/2008 2:39:29 PM
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prnstr
Posts: 9
Joined: 5/16/2008
Status: offline
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It flashed 3-5-5 if that means anything. Bought a mapp sensor and it wasnt the problem either. Something tells me its heat related. When I unhooked the cat. and let it run 2-3 minutes and took off it die in a mile. Could something with the air box do with it? The air box is right above the exhaust manifold. I hooked it back up today and let it run for 12-15 minute then took off with that cannister purge thing unplugged I made it my usual 4-5 mile run and it died. So a played around and hooked the cannister thing back up, nothing. Then I installed the new mapp sensor and there was no change. I took the mapp sensor back off and I am going to return it. Tell me this, would the o2 sensor cause me this grief?? Reason I`m asking is the one sensor is right there on the exhaust manifold. That sucker could of got hotter than usual with the cat off.
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RE: 95 dies after warm - 5/29/2008 3:19:08 PM
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brushedchrome
Posts: 104
Joined: 5/15/2008
From: Gobles, MI
Status: offline
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I dont know about 3. 13 means the MAP sensor vaccum system has a problem. 55 is the end of message code. I dont think that a O2 sensor would cause the car to just die and not start untill it cooled off. It usually just makes a car run richer and get shit gas mileage because the pcm doesnt read the exhaust mixture of air correctly. My car did this exact same stuff and I went through all sorts of sensors to just figure out that it was the computer partially unplugged. When the car got to a certain temp, it would die and not run untill it cooled. What im thinking is, that if the computer in your car is new and the connections are good, and all of the other goodies that would make a car do what its doing are new/replaced, than maybe youve got a loose/broken wire somewhere. When temperature goes up, so does resistance in conductive materials. A frayed/loose wire might just stop sending signal to vital engine components like the coil or ignition system. That is something that could take a while to sniff out. My 96 Neon had a wire do the same thing as well going to the coil pack. The auto techs ended up putting a jumper wire in to fix the problem. Like I said way earlier, maybe the pros should take a whack at it. One of the only other things I can think of are the cam sensor, and the crank sensor. The cam sensor is located on the drivers side of the head right above the coolant temp sensor. And the crank sensor is under the car just above and behind the oil pan, just next to the oil filter. The coolant temp sensor could also play a role. Other than that, get that gallon of gas and a match ready!
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