Does anyone beside me have the factory Sirius satelite radio system installed in their SRT-4 and have experienced intermittent audio cut out of the speakers going over bumps? Its seems that whenever I have the radio in satelite mode, the left side speakers go out at times when I go over even the slightest bumps in the road. I have replaced the radio and the speakers, and still does it. I am getting ready to upgrade to the Kicker sound system(speakers & subwoofer), and would hate to have this problem when i do the upgrade. Any info or insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

i wasn't aware that the stock radios were sirius compatable? and honestly don't bother "upgrading" to the kicker system, you can get aftermarket stuff that's better for the same money.

check the connections on the back of the radio, one is probably loose.

ORIGINAL: PSI Chick

i wasn't aware that the stock radios were sirius compatable? and honestly don't bother "upgrading" to the kicker system, you can get aftermarket stuff that's better for the same money.

check the connections on the back of the radio, one is probably loose.


I agree completely. It is no doubt a loose connection. And I too would reccommend going with aftermarket stuff over the Kicker Livin' Loud system.

I installed a Kenwood H/U, Polk dB components (front) and 6x9s (rear), an Infinity bass link 200w subwoofer (which I can move to the back seat or trunk) and a 400W Alpine amp for about $900 and It's louder and sounds better than the Kicker. Of course, I saved a few bucks by installing it myself. AND my H/U plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs and can read MP3 and WMA files. Also I can hook up a USB flash drive and play MP3s from there. My stock radio always had problems reading home-made burned CDs but aftermarket radios have far fewer problems with this.

Don't get me wrong, Kicker is a very good brand but a dealer will probably rape you on the price of the system plus installation.

I actually am a Dodge Parts Specialist at a dealer here in Akron, Ohio. The prices of the subwoofer and speakers would run me about $500. Plus I can install the stuff myself as well.

and you'd still be better off going aftermarket. the kicker sub is kinda lame actually. really quiet unless the back seat is down, and even then it's just a sad excuse for an sub. the interior speakers might not be a bad idea, but the sub is worthless.

The reason it cuts out, may be this:

- Trees
- Bridges
- Tunnels(thats a biggie)
- Overpasses
- Downtown buildings

Thats the reason I dont have it anymore, that and the cost of 13.99 a month for the fee...I had the XM Radio in the cavalier I used to have. Not bad sound and stuff, just a little overated...and expensive!

if you pay annually it's cheaper, i think i pay $80 a year or something like that. i barely have it go out on me, except for in the lincoln tunnel or something, but hell regular radio doesn't even work in there.

Trees, bridges, etc., is not the reason. Like I said, only the left speakers cut out. The right side works fine. Regular radio sucks ass. I am tired of listening to the same **** being played 5 times in one hour. As far as upgrading the speakers, anyone got suggestions as far as brands?

If that's the case and you can get it for that price and do the install, it's not such a bad deal. I've had Kicker subs and speakers before and the've been great. It all depends on your needs. If you listen to a lot of rap or hard rock and want loud, hard hitting bass, or you are looking for a really loud system, I don't think you're going to be satisfied. For that you will need at least 300 watts RMS powering a single or pair of 10" or larger subs. The type of box makes a difference too.

Sealed box = best for a "tight" bass sound that is very accurate but with not very much boom and thump.
Ported box = best for a wide range of styles of music and falls somewhere in between sealed boxes and bandpass boxes.
Bandpass box = very loud, boomy and efficient; great for rap, disco, and hip hip but not the most accurate musically.

My personal choice for speaker brands are Polk and Pioneer if you want the best bang for the buck, and Alpine orBoston Acoustics if you want to spend some cash. As for the setup, I prefer components in the front with 6x9s for rear fill, with a 4 channel amp (or 2 two-channel amps), so each set of speakers are amplified. For the sub, I use an Infinity 200 Watt Bass-Link, which sounds very good, but I keep it in the back seat most of the time since it sounds louder and better than keeping it in the trunk. I also have a bandpass box with a 600 watt amp running 2 12" Kicker competition subs that I can swap in there. The car is slammin' with those in the trunk!

Bottom line is you have a lot more options going aftermarket but it all depends on your needs and your budget. Don't forget, when going aftermarket you don't have to buy everything all at once. I got my H/U first, then did the rear speakers, then the fronts, then got a wiring kit and sub, then got the amp. Also, as I said in my post above, my Kenwood H/U handles home burned CDs much better than the stock radio did and I can play CD-RWs and MP3 and WMA files.

Good luck, hope this helps!

JL amp and sub with alpine components.....pure sex in a radio lol

All the weight with subs and amps should affectively kill your ET times at the strip also...;)

To each his own, I am satisfied with the current RT-4 setup with the Kicker sytstem in it...its not the best, but it is a "fair" setup at least.:)

Good luck with your install...:)

that's whyi remove the box for the track :D

Same here. I can easily remove either of my sub boxes and amps when needed. The 4-channel Alpine amp powering my components and 6x9s weighs about 10 lbs. and I leave that one in.

both my amps stay in, they're bolted to the back of the rear seats lol. i take out the box, that dam thing must weigh like 50lbs.

50 lbs...[sm=insomnia.gif]