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Battery or Alternator

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Battery or Alternator - 4/25/2008 8:43:07 AM   
trbmbennett

 

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Sorry if this is a easy question for others, but exactly how would I know if it is my battery or alternator that is bad.  The vehicle won't start at all, no lights, accessories or anything.  Thanks!
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RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/25/2008 3:59:57 PM   
hydrashocker



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I'm thinking connection problem.

You can take out the battery and have a parts store load test it to find out if it is good or not. Same thing with the alternator.

Most Auto Zones, Checker, or any large part company will do this service for free. I prefer Auto Zone.

By the way, no question is a stupid one if you don't know the answer to it.

_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
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(in reply to trbmbennett)
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RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/27/2008 10:11:28 PM   
01dakota440

 

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here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine.  

(in reply to hydrashocker)
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RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/28/2008 10:25:14 AM   
Overcast72

 

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I had a problem once with my Trans-Am with the alternator working just fine until it got hot - it would do that if I was idling or moving slow, as long as I was moving the air kept it cool and working. The Voltmeter told me that, I would watch it go from it's normal 13/14 volt range to almost the bottom when I was sitting or moving slow - once I started moving a bit faster, it would move right back up again.

I'd definately get that battery tested first, if it's good - then the alternator. If both are showing good, take a real good look at the wires. A bad alternator can really cut a battery's life.

My T/A's sitting in the driveway right now with a bad battery :( --- and a good alternator, heh


< Message edited by Overcast72 -- 4/28/2008 10:32:37 AM >

(in reply to 01dakota440)
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RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/29/2008 3:49:22 PM   
hydrashocker



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quote:

ORIGINAL: 01dakota440

here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine.  

Dude this is not advisable anymore. Overage goes into the battery to charge it. If you remove the battery the overage goes into the system. This is why it bogs the motor somewhat.
 
The ultimatum of this practice can raise hell with you computer as well as numerous other problems.

Just get it tested.

_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
Too Much To List!

(in reply to 01dakota440)
Post #: 5
RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/30/2008 12:37:43 PM   
01dakota440

 

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first i'm not saying to just drive the truck around without a battery. just pull the negative cable and see if the truck stalls. second there is no such thing as overage, the alternator puts out the same voltage with the battery dead or full. thats what the voltage regulator is for. it keeps the voltave between 12 and 14 volts.

(in reply to hydrashocker)
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RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/30/2008 4:53:34 PM   
hydrashocker



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The engine takes it 12 volts. It takes 12.7 volts to equal 100% capacity. Therefore alternators make a higher average of at least 12.7 volts up to 14.3 volts to adequately charge the battery. A voltage regulator is built into the alternator on our rigs. The regulator has a bleeder. Basically, the regulator is a gate on the system and blocks the outgoing voltage to 12 volts. The rest of the voltage is bled via the bleeder. This overage of voltage (bleeder) is directed into the battery by way of an open loop. This is how the battery gets charged. Remember this is an automotive battery. CCA's are needed to start a auto right?

If you take the battery out the overage has no wear to go. So it overloads the regulator. This overload even for a second can blow the regulator allowing all the voltage to enter the system. Thus blowing it!

I know what you meant by only for a second or two. But it doesn't matter.


ONLY HAVE IT TESTED!

< Message edited by hydrashocker -- 4/30/2008 5:01:17 PM >


_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
Too Much To List!

(in reply to 01dakota440)
Post #: 7
RE: Battery or Alternator - 4/30/2008 7:53:12 PM   
01dakota440

 

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i'm sure if you take the time to reserch it a little more, you will find that the voltage regulator on our rigs is contained directly within the PCM. 

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Post #: 8
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/2/2008 8:09:24 AM   
hydrashocker



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Voltage regulator is in the alternator. There are many things the power rolls around other than the PCM. This voltage is regulated. Do a voltage test. Not to mention follow the wires.

If the voltage all went into the computer then how would your battery get charged with 14.3 Volts. It just can't happen. I think you need to do some research on this yourself.
  

In older vehicles, this was a good idea to get you back on the road again. Not todays with high tech computers. I can see what you are talking about here, but you don't understand the whole picture.

< Message edited by hydrashocker -- 5/2/2008 4:24:37 PM >


_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
Too Much To List!

(in reply to 01dakota440)
Post #: 9
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/2/2008 7:47:19 PM   
IndyDurango



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quote:

ORIGINAL: 01dakota440

here is how to tell if it is the bat or the alt. have someone jump start your truck, then unhook your battery. if your truck stays running without a battery then your alternator is fine.  


LOL.
...Obviously flaw in that thinking...
The D won't run with a low battery worth a sh!t... simply try to get it to run without one at all.
Not calling you a noob but that was some bush league advise there man.

IndyD

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(in reply to 01dakota440)
Post #: 10
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/3/2008 5:12:34 AM   
hydrashocker



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Thanks Indy!

_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
Too Much To List!

(in reply to IndyDurango)
Post #: 11
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/3/2008 10:24:38 PM   
IndyDurango



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No problem HS. I got your back especially when you are catching flak for giving out correct advise. Thanks for the thanks! :)

IndyD

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(in reply to hydrashocker)
Post #: 12
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/7/2008 10:54:54 AM   
01dakota440

 

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wow this site is just full of chey mechanics. and if your d  does not run with a low battery or without one at all then you have other problems. and if you would take the time and look at an electrical diaghram for that d you will see that the voltage regulator is contained directly withing the pcm.  if you do not have access to these, i will gladly scan them and send them to you.

(in reply to IndyDurango)
Post #: 13
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/7/2008 5:38:06 PM   
jeff66


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Joined: 1/28/2008
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I do believe 01dakota440 is right. The votage regulator is contained within the PCM. At least that's what my manual says. (Haynes #30022).



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2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 4.0L
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Post #: 14
RE: Battery or Alternator - 5/8/2008 6:13:38 AM   
hydrashocker



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Dude there is a backup in the PCM.

Look at a diagram of the alternator. Look at the wiring. Look at the open loop. Now think about it for a second.

I have solved more problems with spikes than meets the eye here.

quote:

wow this site is just full of chey mechanics. and if your d  does not run with a low battery or without one at all then you have other problems. 

Now they will run like shit!  We never said it wouldn't run. Dude if ya don' believe me then take YOURS OFF. The electrial issues with our rigs backfires into the system. Put a bad battery in your rig and tell me the truck will run the same?????? Or remove YOUR CABLE and see how your truck runs.

Before you give advise, you might want to test this out on your own rig!

Now if you have something lets see it! And why you are at it look into the alternator! You can't base your argument between our "chey mechanics" unless you too have been around the block.
 
Now I'm not trying to discredit. But you need to read back through this thread and understand everything that was said.

_____________________________

1998 Durango, 5.9L Built Motor Bored 20 Over
P&P Heads, K&N Ram Air CAI
MSD Ignition, 52MM Fastman TB, Built T-Case
Custom Built Trans, Air Bags
Magna Flow 3" Cat Back Exhaust
Too Much To List!

(in reply to jeff66)
Post #: 15
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