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1993 dodge dakota just died lost power

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1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/19/2008 9:29:27 PM   
clluke

 

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Joined: 4/19/2008
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WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD IT STARTED LOSING POWER LIKE IT WAS RUNNING OUT OF GAS ..AFTER GETTING IT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IT WOULDNT RESTART.TOWED IT HOME .TROUBLE SHOOTED SEVERAL THINGS ,NOT GETTING JUICE FROM THE COIL,BUT TRUCK TURNS OVER JUST WONT START changed out coil . took the old coil and put on my other dodge and it cranks  great.  Also getting clicking on asd and fuel pump relay went turn ign. on .  changed the crankshaf position senor too.    needhelp.  thank chris

< Message edited by clluke -- 4/19/2008 9:39:19 PM >
Post #: 1
RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/19/2008 10:14:46 PM   
dodgerules86



Posts: 2712
Joined: 12/25/2003
From: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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I had a similar problem with my Dakota (although, lucky for me, it didn't happen while driving, it happened, I'm guessing, upon start-up).
Heres what to do:
Get a helper. Temporarily remove/relocate the distributor cap (there shouldn't really be a need to remove any of the wires, just a few at the most if you do). While looking at the distribtor rotor, have the helper crank the engine, it will only need to be cranked for like half a second. The rotor should move (spin).
If the rotor DOES move, disregard the rest of this post and just post back that the rotor did move
If the rotor DOES NOT move, than remove the distributor. Find a place to relocate the camshaft sensor (I tucked it behind a wire bundle). On the passenger side, there is a 1/2" bolt that holds the distributor in place. It's tricky to remove, and kinda hard to get to thanks to the oil pressure sending unit. After that bolt is removed and the hold-down plate and distributor assembly is removed, look down in there and there is something else to remove (my grandpa did all the work while I watched, so sorry I can't give a better description). He used a magnet to remove it.
Now, you need to get your friend to crank the engine. (I did this manually, using a socket [forgot the size] and ratchet which goes on the crankshaft damper at the front of the engine, and that's exactly how I would recommend you do it, too). If, when your friend "cranks" the engine, and you don't see anything moving in the hole the distributor once was, your looking at a broken timing chain. Otherwise, if you see stuff moving, something with the distribuor drive is messed up.
To remove/replace the timing chain you have to remove a few things on the front of the motor (temporarily relocate the generator and A/C, remove the water pump, etc. etc). So, if your water pump isn't brand new, since you have to take it off anyways, now is a VERY good time to replace it and ALL of the hoses (heater hoses and the short bypass hose at the top of the water pump included).
Also look into getting a better timing chain (double roller). I'm not going to act like I know whats better about them, but everyone I talked to said to upgrade to one.

_____________________________

Current ride: Belleville 220 DES ST - leather, reinforced front end, tan color. Runs on ''alternative fuel'' :)
1996 Dodge Dakota
1986 Honda Civic CRX

(in reply to clluke)
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RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/20/2008 5:45:51 PM   
clluke

 

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the rotor did move 

(in reply to dodgerules86)
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RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/20/2008 7:44:51 PM   
codydakota

 

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Do you have fuel pressure?  Sounds like a fuel delivery issue to me, like a fuel pump going south.

_____________________________

'95 Dodge Dakota 4x4 5.2L club cab - 219kmi - Dual Exhaust, Filtercharger
'92 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9L club cab - 165kmi - No mods, yet

(in reply to clluke)
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RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/21/2008 11:11:27 AM   
clluke

 

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Joined: 4/19/2008
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yes i have fuel pressure also change the pickup senor . someone said it could be the pcm   any other ideas.

(in reply to codydakota)
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RE: 1993 dodge dakota just died lost power - 4/21/2008 11:20:49 AM   
dodgerules86



Posts: 2712
Joined: 12/25/2003
From: Sycamore, Illinois (displaced to Arkansas)
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After reading your first post again, I recommend the following:
Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil. Look for bent/missing/corroded terminals. If ok, than connect a multimeter to the terminals, and while having a friend crank the engine for just a brief second, test for voltage. Should be getting at least 10.0 volts.
If no voltage is present, or if undervoltage, you will need to test the wires back to the PCM and ASD relay to see if the wiring is bad.

_____________________________

Current ride: Belleville 220 DES ST - leather, reinforced front end, tan color. Runs on ''alternative fuel'' :)
1996 Dodge Dakota
1986 Honda Civic CRX

(in reply to clluke)
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