RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again
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[Poll]
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Would you buy the 3.7 again
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| 3.7 V-6 |
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| 4.7 V-8 |
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| Hemi |
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| SRT V-10 |
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| CTD |
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Total Votes : 21
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(last vote on : 5/15/2008 11:43:56 PM)
(Poll will run till: -- )
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/20/2008 11:35:28 PM
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texbigb
Posts: 69
Joined: 3/8/2008
Status: offline
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good poll...interestn to see wat u guys think...
i didnt buy it and as a "younger" driver i just want a fast car....not usn my truck for town but hauln shit i see...the occasional home depot/lowes wood purchase is about the most hauln my trucks done....
for the inner speed demon in me i would want a hemi/srt10 but then reality kicks n and looks down the street at gas prices and says wtf no way im stickn w/ the v6 or 4.7 v8 and mayb ctd if i ever needed to haul stuff around
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2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Single Cab
3.7 Magnum
19' Chrome Wheels
Bed Liner
K/N Full Cold Air Intake
Bosch Platinum +4 Spark Plugs
BiG-B
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/21/2008 12:11:18 PM
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MarkMark6464
Posts: 46
Joined: 1/26/2008
Status: offline
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Ha ha, yeah. Would be so much better if I didnt have to haul stuff! If I didnt well then hell, why not get a charger or challenger!?
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/21/2008 2:43:49 PM
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COYOTE10663
Posts: 101
Joined: 1/3/2007
Status: offline
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I voted for the CTD. Only in anticipation of the 1/2 ton Cummins V-6 powerd Ram that is supposed to come out in 2010 or so. Not for the 3/4 & 1 ton 6.7L Cummins. The V-6 CTD will get around 25 ish mpg. And when we make the switch to Diesel produced from coal, and diesel fuel gets back down to $2.00 - $2.25/gal like it should ALLREADY be, the V-6 CTD will be the only way to go. Diesel from crude oil is selling for about $95 / barell. HOWEVER, Diesel fuel produced from COAL, wich can be made right here in the good 'ol USA cost about $35 / barell to produce. ( USA has the LARGEST stockpile of coal in the WORLD! ) It IS the government that is keeping fuel prices so high. Simple as that. This is NOT, I repeat NOT new technology. We knew how to make Diesel fuel from coal over 80 years ago!!!!!! We did not do it then, because at that time, curde oil was so cheap that it would have been more expensive. IT IS TIME FOR A CHANGE!!
So, in short. No. I would not get the 3.7L again. Even WITH the $1000.00 extra rebate. I will be looking at the 2010 Ram real hard when the CTD hits the 1/2 ton market. ( As well as Ford & Chevy 1/2 ton diesels! )
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2007 RAM 1500 2wd, SHORT BED, V-6, AUTO TRANS., FULL GAUGES, CARPET, HUSKY TOOL BOX, BED LINER, 3.93 LIMIT-SLIP REAR AXLE, TOWING PACKAGE, CHROME BUMERS, STANLESS DOOR HANDLE COVERS, 4" MONSTER EXHAUST, CHROME INTAKE KIT,
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/23/2008 9:10:55 PM
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marv02
Posts: 536
Joined: 7/30/2006
Status: offline
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Has any one notice how many of us would buy the 3.7 V-6 again.
Yea most of us can say never again a small gas V-6 in a full size truck.
Like I said before they should of never offered a V-6 in this truck good engine but not enough to pull this truck around power to weight ratio is not a good combo If they had some more cubic inches it could of worked out just some useable H/P out this engine would of been great also.
Like I said Usable H/P thats make all the diffrents in the world for the ones that don't know what this means the right amount of H/P in the correct RPM range, not the ones with the most H/P always wins but have it in the right place make it a winner or a just anouther over rated POS.
< Message edited by marv02 -- 4/23/2008 9:24:29 PM >
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06 Ram 1500 Q-Cab 4X2 3.7, Manual 6 Speed
Ram Air intake Duct
K&N drop In filter,
Dash Cover
Rino spray in bed liner,
Hellwig rear Anti Sway Bar
AMSOIL in every thing
NGK Iridium Plugs
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/25/2008 2:48:31 PM
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COYOTE10663
Posts: 101
Joined: 1/3/2007
Status: offline
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Marv, you are absolutly correct. And I have thought about that issue for some years now. I do not have the time to do a full comparison of Ford vs. Dodge vs. GM on the HP at 1500, 2000, 2500 RPM, as well as the MAX HP and it's posted RPM for the V-6 models. I did this some years ago when I had my 2003 Chevy Cav. LS with the awsome Ecotec motor. ( Comparing the Cav./Sunfire vs. Focus vs. Corrolla vs. Civic.) Just as important as the HP ratings, even more so in my book, is WHERE the Torque omes in at! Torque is what gets your speed up off the line. HP carry's you up the steep hill at 60 MPH.
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2007 RAM 1500 2wd, SHORT BED, V-6, AUTO TRANS., FULL GAUGES, CARPET, HUSKY TOOL BOX, BED LINER, 3.93 LIMIT-SLIP REAR AXLE, TOWING PACKAGE, CHROME BUMERS, STANLESS DOOR HANDLE COVERS, 4" MONSTER EXHAUST, CHROME INTAKE KIT,
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RE: Would you buy the 3.7 again - 4/25/2008 8:53:04 PM
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marv02
Posts: 536
Joined: 7/30/2006
Status: offline
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Hey COYOTE10663
I am glad someone else understands Torque and Horse Power and making the most H/P not always means you have the badiest car or truck out there on the road.
I found a lot of pepole don't understand that they just look at the H/P ratings and go by that alone.
For example I have a older race motocycle this thing is fast but I changed the power band including porting it to get more over rev out of it upped the compression, changing the pipe ect, so it's more user freindly made it more a liner type power band rather than Hitting the pipe hard and hang on it now power no mather where you'er are in turn makes easyer to ride you don't have to hold on as tight get tired out as fast and turn faster lap times due to having the correct power band in the correct RPM range, the only draw 2 draw backs are now I have to run race gas $9.00 a gallon and 2nd I need to get rid of it now it's to fast just to go riding or putting around with my Kid and Wife It wants to go fast and now a days I just putt slow so the family can stay up or I going very slow so I can ride with them The motor dose not like it at all it jumps spits bucks It wants to be rode hard and put away wet not putting around.
What I trying to say this motor Is great for going very fast and racing but not good for just going slow there is a correct and wrong set up for what you want and need one set up normaly can't do it all the best there is give and take you or the builder of the engine you'r goinging to use for needs to put a lot of thought in to this not just drop any motor in and say it works fine in a car so it should work in a truck also.
As for me when I build this motor for this bike It was for racing and going fast many years ago when going fast I did most of the time, but I don't need a race motor any more I need a motor that able to be ran slow not at full Bore all the time Like I said making the most H/P is not always the way to go is usable power for what you are going to use it for is.
quote:
ORIGINAL: COYOTE10663
Marv, you are absolutly correct. And I have thought about that issue for some years now. I do not have the time to do a full comparison of Ford vs. Dodge vs. GM on the HP at 1500, 2000, 2500 RPM, as well as the MAX HP and it's posted RPM for the V-6 models. I did this some years ago when I had my 2003 Chevy Cav. LS with the awsome Ecotec motor. ( Comparing the Cav./Sunfire vs. Focus vs. Corrolla vs. Civic.) Just as important as the HP ratings, even more so in my book, is WHERE the Torque omes in at! Torque is what gets your speed up off the line. HP carry's you up the steep hill at 60 MPH.
_____________________________
06 Ram 1500 Q-Cab 4X2 3.7, Manual 6 Speed
Ram Air intake Duct
K&N drop In filter,
Dash Cover
Rino spray in bed liner,
Hellwig rear Anti Sway Bar
AMSOIL in every thing
NGK Iridium Plugs
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