Any reason NOT to go with a Charger SRT-8 over a regular R/T?

MrC1 · #1 01-02-2008, 05:28 PM

Hey guys, I also posted in the SRT-8 section, but thought my question could be answered by folks over here as well.

I'm a newbie on this site. Looks like a great place to learn a bit about my next car, hopefully a Charger SRT-8.

I've heard bad things about brake rotors scoring and parts being extremely expensive, but I wanted to check with you guys to help separate fact from fiction. What am I getting myslef into by going with a SRT-8 instead of just a regular R/T?

halgodal · #2 01-02-2008, 06:31 PM

No doubt, go with the SRT-8! I really wrangled with the choice between the two and I am glad I picked the SRT. The R/T is a great machine, but the SRT just takes everything to the next level. If you get the chance to drive them back to back and can hit the gas on the test drive, you will be signing the SRT paperwork 10 minutes later.

(I think the brake rotor issue went away in the '07 model anyway).

Good luck.

IXLR8 · #3 01-02-2008, 08:55 PM

Knowing whatI know now, after owning a Charger Daytona for two years, and attending two SRT Track Experiences, go with the SRT. The only downside that I can see is that if you have a lot of snow, or if it hurts to spend an extra .20/mile to drive it (depreciation and gas consumption being the extra cost) go R/T...

If you plan on modifying your ride, you will have a MUCH better place to start with the SRT.

I am replacing the rotors on my car, and I will say that I noticed that there were a lot more high performance rotors for the SRT's, than there were for the R/T. I guess I did not realize there was a problem, but your comments make more sense now.

After driving all of the SRT vehicles, on what is now numerous occasions, I would recommend an SRT without hesitation.

MrC1 · #4 01-02-2008, 09:37 PM

I have lots of reasons for asking, but the main concerns are:

-lack of drivetrain warranty (R/Ts have lifetime, right?)
-tire cost
-misc maintenance cost (brake jobs, any other small parts all appear to be 10x the cost of R/T stuff)
-insurance costs
-mpg / premium fuel required combo (no MDS)

I don't plan to do any major mods, but I can't say that I'll be able to resist if/when they come out with gears!

3.55s would be a nice mild upgrade over hte 3.06s.

Sounds like I need to get an '07 or newer to avoid the brake issue then?

MangoInTX · #5 01-03-2008, 11:35 AM

Most of us modify our cars so warranty is not an issue because it's basically gone

Getting picky here - Tire costs is a wash, you have to purchase tires for either. I just put 175/40/20 wheels and tires on mine after 30K.

Never looked at parts costs, but hey your going to pay to play.

Insurance costs may be a little higher for the SRT8 in my case but not enough to make that a factor in a decision.

The only down side are the cost of a RT vs SRT8 and the gas guzzler tax on the SRT8. Now, after a few years of mods, my RT will keep pace with a stock SRT8 without using nitrous.

tdmopar59 · #6 01-03-2008, 12:29 PM

i would go with an srt8 those things are bad @$$ !! stock they are really quick! imagine after a few nice mods!

MrC1 · #7 01-03-2008, 04:37 PM

The reason I mention the tire cost is, most tires I've found are $300-400 each and there aren't many options made in a 20".

After some more poking aroun don the 'net I found a couple places that offered 275/40-20s for something like $150 or less, so I guess that's no longer a problem!

I don't plan to mod the crap outta it. It's simply going to be our family car, not a racecar. I would definitely like to keep the warranty for peace of mind.

MangoInTX · #8 01-03-2008, 05:28 PM

If you don't mind the extra price tag & guzzler tax of the SRT8 go for it, it's your choice and I believe you would be happy with either a RT or SRT8.

I'm happy driving a daytona with MDS gas miliage and400+ HPat my disposal (<= that's modded w/nitrous).

Texas TorRed · #9 01-03-2008, 09:06 PM

If the warranty is your hang-up, just opt for the extended contract. I got a 5 year 70K warranty that covers more than just the powertrain for $1,700. Remember that the lifetime warranty is just on the powertrain, and if you look closely, they squirm out of most of the "typical" parts that break. But hey, if you break a crankshaft, you're golden!

I am telling you, take one for a spin and you will be hooked!

MrC1 · #10 01-03-2008, 10:10 PM

Well, I'm planning to buy a used 2007 model, so that's what's driving a big part of my warranty concerns since some of it will already be used up.

Thanks for all the info and opinions. You guys are making me feel a little better!